deskthority

Slom wrote:
Yeah I think mixed up market price and market value

By that definition, it is actually impossible to buy above market value, right?

I think that most people, realistically, will look at the average selling price in a recent time period to determine what would be "fair"

What actually happens is that one person might have paid through the nose for something that he was desperately lusting after, while a similar item might have been sold elsewhere on ebay for $5 under the heading "Dirty Old Keyboard - not working"

Dingster wrote:

FXT wrote: Thank you. I started the bidding at $0.99 with no reserve. I'd honestly like to just get what I paid for it. Something coming up is actually a friend cutting me an amazing deal on some car parts that I want and I figured I'd rather have those than a keyboard I rarely use.
Edit:. If it goes for more than I paid for it, I'll donate a portion of the profit to deskthority.

What parts and for what car, if you dont mind me asking

It's suspension parts for my 2011 Mustang GT. Cortex watts link, maximum motorsports caster camber plates, steeda boss 302 lowering springs and Koni yellow shocks/struts.

FXT wrote:

Dingster wrote:

FXT wrote: Thank you. I started the bidding at $0.99 with no reserve. I'd honestly like to just get what I paid for it. Something coming up is actually a friend cutting me an amazing deal on some car parts that I want and I figured I'd rather have those than a keyboard I rarely use.
Edit:. If it goes for more than I paid for it, I'll donate a portion of the profit to deskthority.

What parts and for what car, if you dont mind me asking

It's suspension parts for my 2011 Mustang GT. Cortex watts link, maximum motorsports caster camber plates, steeda boss 302 lowering springs and Koni yellow shocks/struts.

Damn nice, good luck with that

Sucks to be in the EU only mustangs that I see are the EU models, which completely miss the point of a mustang

Looks like the heat/glue damaged 3279 Beamspring sold for a best offer.

Anyone here get it?

orihalcon wrote: Looks like the heat/glue damaged 3279 Beamspring sold for a best offer.

Anyone here get it?

Actuall what the f*ck right there

orihalcon wrote: Looks like the heat/glue damaged 3279 Beamspring sold for a best offer.

Anyone here get it?

I didn't, but I hope someone here did for a low price, and will document the restoration.

digital_matthew wrote:

orihalcon wrote: Looks like the heat/glue damaged 3279 Beamspring sold for a best offer.

Anyone here get it?

I didn't, but I hope someone here did for a low price, and will document the restoration.

It went for $415. I may buy some of the caps If the buyer wants to part it out.

tron wrote:

digital_matthew wrote:

orihalcon wrote: Looks like the heat/glue damaged 3279 Beamspring sold for a best offer.

Anyone here get it?

I didn't, but I hope someone here did for a low price, and will document the restoration.

It went for $415. I may buy some of the caps If the buyer wants to part it out.

Oh I expected much worse, hopefully the guy restores it, or uses the parts

NIB IBM 5291, the part number reads 4176199.

https://www.ebay.it/itm/IBM-rara-tastie ... Sw8hharqb8

Aer Fixus wrote: I purchased the board.
Yes, I may have overpaid.
But 'twill will live again.


I will restore it.
It may take more than I'd like,
But that's half the fun.

Good luck.
With restoring that is.

Dingster wrote: Damn nice, good luck with that
Sucks to be in the EU only mustangs that I see are the EU models, which completely miss the point of a mustang

Thank you. And the EU GTs are actually a pretty good value since even the base GTs there get the performance package which is an option here in the US.

Aer Fixus wrote: I purchased the board.
Yes, I may have overpaid.
But 'twill will live again.


I will restore it.
It may take more than I'd like,
But that's half the fun.

Congrats, will you be doing a build thread? I'm curious to see what the inside of that beamspring look like. I'll miss seeing your haiku on overpriced beamsprings.

FXT wrote:

Dingster wrote: Damn nice, good luck with that
Sucks to be in the EU only mustangs that I see are the EU models, which completely miss the point of a mustang

Thank you. And the EU GTs are actually a pretty good value since even the base GTs there get the performance package which is an option here in the US.

Aer Fixus wrote: I purchased the board.
Yes, I may have overpaid.
But 'twill will live again.


I will restore it.
It may take more than I'd like,
But that's half the fun.

Congrats, will you be doing a build thread? I'm curious to see what the inside of that beamspring look like. I'll miss seeing your haiku on overpriced beamsprings.

Sure they are good value, but the whole "muscle" spirit of the mustang is gone...might be just me

FXT wrote: Congrats, will you be doing a build thread? I'm curious to see what the inside of that beamspring look like. I'll miss seeing your haiku on overpriced beamsprings.

Yes, there will be a build thread. I'll make it once I actually get the board and know what needs to be done to it.

I've already got some black Selectric keycaps to put on it. If they look good (texture, color, etc), I may consider selling off some of the original keycaps to recover at least some of the price. And then, there's the issue of a replacement/re-painted door (or maybe covering it entirely and making the front edge continuous). And with a set of all black keycaps, maybe I could complete the look and paint the case black. I'm usually a stickler for keeping things stock, but once something is damaged to the point where it can't feasibly be brought back to original without purchasing a mostly original donor, the time and effort might as well be put into highly customizing it. If the PCB is shot, maybe I could tackle an ANSI mod

Aer Fixus wrote:

FXT wrote: Congrats, will you be doing a build thread? I'm curious to see what the inside of that beamspring look like. I'll miss seeing your haiku on overpriced beamsprings.

Yes, there will be a build thread. I'll make it once I actually get the board and know what needs to be done to it.

I've already got some black Selectric keycaps to put on it. If they look good (texture, color, etc), I may consider selling off some of the original keycaps to recover at least some of the price. And then, there's the issue of a replacement/re-painted door (or maybe covering it entirely and making the front edge continuous). And with a set of all black keycaps, maybe I could complete the look and paint the case black. I'm usually a stickler for keeping things stock, but once something is damaged to the point where it can't feasibly be brought back to original without purchasing a mostly original donor, the time and effort might as well be put into highly customizing it. If the PCB is shot, maybe I could tackle an ANSI mod

Regarding the flip out panel. I'm wondering if a professional company could scan/3-D print a suitable replacement (it may be expensive but I have no idea). Hopefully the switch plate protected the pcb. I'm willing to bet the caps and switches absorbed most of the heat from the liquid.

Aer Fixus wrote: I purchased the board.
Yes, I may have overpaid.
But 'twill will live again.


I will restore it.
It may take more than I'd like,
But that's half the fun.

Nice, it deserves to be saved and your efforts won't be wasted. I'm most curious to learn how the damage occurred. My best guess is that someone was welding nearby ("molten lava" indeed!) as I've seen that happen on other stuff.

tron wrote: Regarding the flip out panel. I'm wondering if a professional company could scan/3-D print a suitable replacement (it may be expensive but I have no idea). Hopefully the switch plate protected the pcb. I'm willing to bet the caps and switches absorbed most of the heat from the liquid.

If I do have it replaced, I'll likely have the local metal shop do it. I know the guys and they are skilled enough to get it right (and they'd probably give me a good deal, too). The listing claims that it will not stay shut. This could be because of the booklet protruding too much or the door could be warped from the damage.*** If the door is warped it would not be a good candidate for 3D scanning since it's not the correct shape and any 3D print of it would be just as warped. If it is not warped, I could sand and repaint it, although it won't change the fact that it is still plastic.

Regarding 3D scanning it, the local maker space has a compositing method that uses an ordinary camera and a highly controlled space for lighting. The local college's maker space has a dedicated 3D scanner. The compositing method works quite a bit better for capturing fine detail, but takes significantly more time. Given that this is a simple object, it would be far simpler and more accurate to measure the original and make a new model in CAD. And 3D printing it would be plenty doable once you have the 3D model. You would need to take care that it doesn't warp when printing, though. Large, thin pieces have a tendency to do that in most of the 3D printers I've used.

***[Edit: Turns out, the door on 3278s is spring loaded. The tab that holds the door in place is likely just broken. Now that's something I might go through the effort to try to 3D print.]

Another forum member here actually made a metal replacement for the plastic flip out panel. I can't wait to see pictures of the damage.

Aer Fixus wrote: I purchased the board.
Yes, I may have overpaid.
But 'twill will live again.


I will restore it.
It may take more than I'd like,
But that's half the fun.

best of luck to you man, that sort of repair is definitely out of my league.

Another Flebay special here for the Northgate fanatics;

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/112876499977?ul_noapp=true

Hope someone here gets them and I don't mean some re-selling felcher, out to make profit only.

Elrick wrote: Another Flebay special here for the Northgate fanatics;

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/112876499977?ul_noapp=true

Hope someone here gets them and I don't mean some re-selling felcher, out to make profit only.

Great illustration of the three generations of Northgate boards. Can anyone read the serial number on the middle one?

Polecat wrote:

Elrick wrote: Another Flebay special here for the Northgate fanatics;

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/112876499977?ul_noapp=true

Hope someone here gets them and I don't mean some re-selling felcher, out to make profit only.

Great illustration of the three generations of Northgate boards. Can anyone read the serial number on the middle one?

I read 0901382, but I wouldn't bet my life on that last digit--it may be a 3. Also, the characters separated by a space to the right are less clear. Do you need those, too?

nsmechkb wrote:

Polecat wrote:

Elrick wrote: Another Flebay special here for the Northgate fanatics;

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/112876499977?ul_noapp=true

Hope someone here gets them and I don't mean some re-selling felcher, out to make profit only.

Great illustration of the three generations of Northgate boards. Can anyone read the serial number on the middle one?

I read 0901382, but I wouldn't bet my life on that last digit--it may be a 3. Also, the characters separated by a space to the right are less clear. Do you need those, too?

Thanks, it's actually the "9" that's messing with me. The last digits are probably 0H-00 which I believe is a date code of some sort, but the second digit would need to be a 5 or 6 to fit in with the sequence on my list *if* the serial numbers are sequential. This one is interesting because it's apparently right at the end of the Rev. 3.04 period (whatever that meant) and right at the beginning of the "5xx-xxxx" model number period. It's the only one so far on my list with both of those designations, but the serial number seems out of place.

Found what appears to be a gourd spring board with coloured mods on Buyee:

https://buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/e267578899

IronHobbit wrote:

JP! wrote: Damn, those are some great finds. Thanks for sharing.

Thanks. I wonder how much the space cadet will go for, I have never seen one on eBay before.

If it wasn't missing the Y key I'd actually be interested in it. Even so, currently going for over $600.

Blaise170 wrote:

IronHobbit wrote:

JP! wrote: Damn, those are some great finds. Thanks for sharing.

Thanks. I wonder how much the space cadet will go for, I have never seen one on eBay before.

If it wasn't missing the Y key I'd actually be interested in it. Even so, currently going for over $600.

Here is last years spring lisp machine keyboard for reference. Also had a broken stem, but at least the key cap was still there.

https://www.ebay.de/itm/252843230774

https://www.ebay.de/itm/Commodore-Tastatur/173225235199

Get a running start on your Big Keys collection:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Big-Keys-plus- ... SwFbpaq-Ct

Key Tronic's CEO standing before a sea of foam and foil. Thanks Stanley, thanks a lot:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1991-Press-Pho ... SwwYpapt22

I would have bid on those keyboards if only to harvest the white Alps but $30 shipping? No thanks.

I think my company's IT department should issue those big keys keyboards to employees.