deskthority

It's them GH guys. They would give quadruple for a keycap!

webwit wrote:It's them GH guys. They would give quadruple for a keycap!

I still sold quite a lot here.

Wait for the last laugh till I resell this for quadruple!

Ok I know. I'll keep it in a box.

webwit wrote:Wait for the last laugh till I resell this for quadruple!

Ok I know. I'll keep it in a box.

I'm sure you won't resell it because you only buy one!

I might get bored with keyboards. Then I'll sell my Industrial Space Savers, the Space Cadet, and the golden clickclack. Oh, and the most precious of all, the Duck clickclacks. After which I'll buy my own island.

What kind of evil lair doesn't have a clack?

When I get round to making my movie, the criminal mastermind will have an Industrial SSK.

GeorgeK wrote:Also I presume yours has one piece caps?

Mostly! There are four two-piece caps, randomly around the keyboard, where someone's put on replacements at some point. All the caps are in fine shape besides the 5 key, which is a little rough around the edge. All the SSK specific caps (the integrated numberpad centred around the I key) are single-piece.

The keyboard's in fair nick overall. Three loose rivets, but nothing I can actually feel in use. And one of the lower case's retainer clips for the barrel plate is snapped. Again, not a problem when assembled. A good blue label SSK then, and it's all mine! Thanks Tinnie.

Timmie, I pm'ed you yesterday about the new set of SSK's on Geekhack. Put me down for one please

Muirium wrote:

GeorgeK wrote:Also I presume yours has one piece caps?

Mostly! There are four two-piece caps, randomly around the keyboard, where someone's put on replacements at some point. All the caps are in fine shape besides the 5 key, which is a little rough around the edge. All the SSK specific caps (the integrated numberpad centred around the I key) are single-piece.

The keyboard's in fair nick overall. Three loose rivets, but nothing I can actually feel in use. And one of the lower case's retainer clips for the barrel plate is snapped. Again, not a problem when assembled. A good blue label SSK then, and it's all mine! Thanks Tinnie.

Awesome - thanks for the detailed info! I'll post a report on mine when it arrives - most likely on Tuesday but maybe later...

pm'd

Received mine today and all is not well... The following keys DO NOT WORK



Also the right Ctrl and right Alt stick down and need manually prising back up again...

Less than happy...

Edit: Also I don't have the tools to open it or fix it - needless to say Tinlong PM'd

^refund sent.

tinnie wrote:^refund sent.

Thanks mate - I'll have a go at repairing it...

Good man, Tinnie!

Fortunately, all of that's fixable with a bolt mod. I recently did one on a terminal Model M, I'll post the pictures with a guide. Because although there's good ones out there, I learned some more through my own mistakes (all fixed) and the wiki needs it.

okay guys, those boards arrived my home. SO F HEAVY 220 kg in total. #

They are f dirty, too.

Pics!

This is going to be F interesting…

F dirty is probably okay. We all strip our keyboards down to clean them on arrival, right? F heavy is the complex part. But it ain't an F unless it's heavy metal!

snoopy wrote:Pics!

only took one. :/

Seems your source didn't have time to wrap all the keyboards loosely in plastic, nor do I see any stuffing to prevent broken cases.

I hope for the sake of the buyers that they came out all right, or that you actually picked up that box at the sellers' place and handled it carefully...

yeah, that packaging kind of sucks... did they all survive?

Old keyboards are treated like that all too often. Fortunately, these are all Model Fs. A lot of snapped plastic horror can happen when you put Ms among these guys.

Fs aren't immune to damage of course, but they're tougher than Ms which just crack apart when jostled around the wrong way without protection.

JBert wrote:Seems your source didn't have time to wrap all the keyboards loosely in plastic, nor do I see any stuffing to prevent broken cases.

I hope for the sake of the buyers that they came out all right, or that you actually picked up that box at the sellers' place and handled it carefully...

Seriously, wrap the keyboard in plastic won't help anything as they are made from metal!

Hence, they're 2,7 kg each.

But I think a better packaging would help to prevent that they scratch even more or loose more paint.

Bubblewrap is your keyboard's best friend.

You'll upgrade the packing for the next leg, right Tinnie? These guys are strong, but they're also heavy enough to cause each other a lot of damage in transit.

Muirium wrote:Bubblewrap is your keyboard's best friend.

You'll upgrade the packing for the next leg, right Tinnie? These guys are strong, but they're also heavy enough to cause each other a lot of damage in transit.

Yes, I will. But it might be hard to keep the shipping cost "low".

True. And unavoidable, really. These are Fs! Tanks disguised in keyboard form.

Hey Muirium,

it would be great if you could post your bolt-modding guide: I've been looking into it and I found quite some information, but another good guide would be great to have. And yes, the DT wiki should have one !
J.

So… many… pictures. I'll try to find the ones that don't suck, and write the guide around them. In the meantime: grab yourself a hand drill with a 1/16" inch bit (I've heard electric works too, but go real slow) and 50 or more M2 screws and washers. Oh, and a "nut sprinner" set. The case has 5.5mm hex bolts recessed underneath that you need to take out to start.

Fun fun fun! It's a great way to get everything thoroughly cleaned, though. My 1990 122 key looks newer now than most of my 21st century stuff.

nourathar wrote:Hey Muirium,

it would be great if you could post your bolt-modding guide: I've been looking into it and I found quite some information, but another good guide would be great to have. And yes, the DT wiki should have one !
J.

Muirium wrote:So… many… pictures. I'll try to find the ones that don't suck, and write the guide around them. In the meantime: grab yourself a hand drill with a 1/16" inch bit (I've heard electric works too, but go real slow) and 50 or more M2 screws and washers. Oh, and a "nut sprinner" set. The case has 5.5mm hex bolts recessed underneath that you need to take out to start.

Fun fun fun! It's a great way to get everything thoroughly cleaned, though. My 1990 122 key looks newer now than most of my 21st century stuff.

If you google IBM Bolt Mod there are some excellent guides - namely:

http://imgur.com/a/QroSL‎ - Ripsters Guide
http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showt ... ?t=1024488 - one from OCAU
http://wiki.geekhack.org/index.php?titl ... d_Bolt_Mod - the one on the GH wiki

There's another that I can't find right now which was billed as the 'not another bolt mod guide but the mistakes not to make guide'

At the moment I can't get enough guides though - I'm definitely a "read all the information three times before trying anything" kind of chap so I'd be interested to see your guide Murium

tinnie wrote:

JBert wrote:Seems your source didn't have time to wrap all the keyboards loosely in plastic, nor do I see any stuffing to prevent broken cases.

I hope for the sake of the buyers that they came out all right, or that you actually picked up that box at the sellers' place and handled it carefully...

Seriously, wrap the keyboard in plastic won't help anything as they are made from metal!

Hence, they're 2,7 kg each.

The plastic is needed so you don't lose any keys, I have had a few pop off during transport.

Is the exterior made from metal? I would guess it's more of that heavy opaque plastic used in the model F AT, meaning it is tough but brittle. Even the model F XT whose internals are built like a tank comes with such a top cover, and this cover is prone to cracking.

Then again, I'm sure you'll inspect them, and they might not have suffered much.