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Posted: 26 Mar 2016, 18:28
by manna
Is 150 euro a good price for a ISO Novatouch, Italian layout with:
-Hypersphere's silencing ring
-Granite alphas keycaps
-Capslock LED mod (and a "ghetto" windowed keycap)
Posted: 26 Mar 2016, 19:11
by rddm
ramnes wrote: rddm wrote: how much for a g81-30xx SAD?
Really depends on condition.
I didn't really inspect it, no time. I need to clean it and see the texture.
But for a used one.
Posted: 28 Mar 2016, 07:12
by itzmeluigi
Around how much is a Industrial Model M round label in mint condition worth?
Posted: 28 Mar 2016, 18:48
by zuglufttier
rddm wrote: ramnes wrote: rddm wrote: how much for a g81-30xx SAD?
Really depends on condition.
I didn't really inspect it, no time. I need to clean it and see the texture.
But for a used one.
30 to 70 euros, depending on who's buying

Posted: 29 Mar 2016, 11:15
by Prelim
how much for a G80-1000HAP nkro version (full diodes model) without caps?
Btw it have the smoothest vintage blacks, of course

Posted: 29 Mar 2016, 14:04
by prava
prava wrote: Hi there!
I have a couple of NIB G80-2551HAD. Yup, they are completely and utterly new. How much would their price be? I'm running out of place and things that I do not use need to go.
Thanks!
Help! I have people interested but I have no idea how much they go for. I'd appreciate some insight!
Posted: 29 Mar 2016, 14:23
by ramnes
They are very hard to price because they're rare but without a lot of demand.
A fair price would somewhere between 150 and 200€ each, but I'm not sure you'll find buyers at that price.
I guess it really depends how quick you want to sell.
Posted: 29 Mar 2016, 14:41
by bocahgundul
Prelim wrote: how much for a G80-1000HAP nkro version (full diodes model) without caps?
Btw it have the smoothest vintage blacks, of course

can I see the serial bro? I think I'm interested on the board

Posted: 30 Mar 2016, 02:13
by Prelim
here it is, /pm me if you're interested

Posted: 30 Mar 2016, 02:24
by Redmaus
itzmeluigi wrote: Around how much is a Industrial Model M round label in mint condition worth?
150 USD? Just a rough guess
Posted: 30 Mar 2016, 02:29
by photekq
That G80-1000HAP without caps is worth maybe 40EUR at the _very_ most. I say this because you can get G80-1501HADs for extremely cheap, which are effectively the same keyboard - 1000s with NKRO in ISO layout. I would usually say 20EUR, but I think the fact that it has very old (1988) blacks adds about 20EUR value.
The only think that makes the G80-1000HAP valuable are the keycaps, which are missing.
Posted: 30 Mar 2016, 11:15
by Prelim
portuguese caps for portuguese people, as I'm always saying Tom

these are also the times where G80-1000HADs are being sold for 400€+ on ebay lol, but thanks for the price check help though!
Posted: 30 Mar 2016, 11:34
by rddm
@Prelim I want the keycaps!
Posted: 30 Mar 2016, 11:34
by Prelim
lol, nice joke

(unfortunately they are EXTREMELY shinny/yellowed, I guess you're also a bit tired of that hehe)
Posted: 30 Mar 2016, 11:39
by rddm
After my new ones, something used will be a shit ahahha. It's always good a iso-pt set.
Posted: 30 Mar 2016, 14:17
by photekq
Prelim wrote: these are also the times where G80-1000HADs are being sold for 400€+ on ebay lol, but thanks for the price check help though!
Yeah.. I don't pay attention to those sales.. They are absurdities

Posted: 30 Mar 2016, 16:45
by Jimi14
Out of curiosity, how much would an Swe/Fin iso blue alps datacomp board and a swe/fin iso PS/2 model M be worth between them?
Posted: 30 Mar 2016, 16:48
by chiptea
Jimi14 wrote: Out of curiosity, how much would an Swe/Fin iso blue alps datacomp board and a swe/fin iso PS/2 model M be worth between them?
Model M would be something like 50-60 euro depending on condition. The blue alps board could be anything nowdays. Anywhere from $150 (would be a reasonable price, especially before the blue alps craze), to $500 nowdays on ebay.
Posted: 01 Apr 2016, 19:42
by gcardinal
Just got my self 2 x G81-3000LRNGB-2/00 - one with Cherry logo and one without. No shine, looks barely used - but a bit dusty/dirty (will do some clean-up

) Keycaps printed, Type 3 switches.
How much can I ask for those Cherry MY boards with confidence?
Posted: 01 Apr 2016, 19:46
by photekq
Probably only 10-20EUR. The keycaps might be worth something to somebody, and the case might be worth something to somebody, but neither of them would be worth much.
Posted: 01 Apr 2016, 19:46
by scottc
The bottom row keycaps have off-center stems, so they can't be used on standard MX keyboards. The keycaps are also lasered, so not worth a huge amount - but - someone just posted in another thread asking for cheap black Cherry caps in ISO!
Posted: 01 Apr 2016, 20:06
by gcardinal
Oh cool - thank you for the tip! Dropped him a PM
Ok thanks! At that price I might just hold on to them for a while and maybe do a 25G mod.
Posted: 04 Apr 2016, 15:15
by Spikebolt
I'm planning to sell most of my non-core keyboards soon but I have no idea how much some of them are worth. Hopefully you guys can lend me a hand!
AEK 2, ISO, Italian(?) layout, Cream Damped Alps
Case kinda yellowed, scratched ISO enter, spacebar yellowed.
Album here
Magitronic D-K173, Green Alps(?)
Needs a cleanup but in otherwise good condition
Album here
G80-3000, No keycaps, Cherry MX Blacks
No keycaps will be included, even though some are pictured. I assume this one is not worth selling, sourcing the switches and stabs is probably the way to go...
Album here
Posted: 04 Apr 2016, 15:23
by Redmaus
I would give the ISO AEK a price of 35$, due to the neat Yoe builds I see.
I would give the green alps board a price of 55$ if they are complicated, and 30$ if they are simplified. I am actually interested in this board. PM me if you wish to sell it on DT.
I don't know how to price the G80-3000, not a Cherry user.
Posted: 04 Apr 2016, 15:32
by scottc
The green Alps board price quote is low. Those have been going quite high recently. Not sure what I'd quote it at. Are the switches genuine Alps or clones?
Posted: 04 Apr 2016, 15:33
by Chyros
The green Alps are a clone. If they'd be genuine Lime Alps $55, let alone $30, would have been a criminal underbid :p .
Posted: 04 Apr 2016, 15:35
by scottc
I think, perhaps, that the motives behind such a low quote are quite apparent...

Posted: 04 Apr 2016, 15:42
by Spikebolt
Thanks a lot for your feedback so far.
I'm unsure if they are simplified, complicated or genuine. How can I check that out? The lack of Alps branding would indicate clone though. EDIT: looking at the wiki it would appear the branding would be on bottom of the switch, not the top. I guess I'll have to desolder one to find out.
Posted: 07 Apr 2016, 11:31
by E3E
Spikebolt wrote: Thanks a lot for your feedback so far.
I'm unsure if they are simplified, complicated or genuine. How can I check that out? The lack of Alps branding would indicate clone though. EDIT: looking at the wiki it would appear the branding would be on bottom of the switch, not the top. I guess I'll have to desolder one to find out.
There are more ways to see if they are genuine or not, but I'm pretty sure I've seen a post on this one before, and they are clones.
Keep the above picture in mind as an identifier and do note that you can always open the switch while it's mounted to the board to look at its internals. Only complicated Alps has a plastic switch/contact plate. If it's a simple set of contact leaves, then it's either simplified Alps or a clone.
EDIT: Wait, I forgot. All Alps SKCM Lime switches have ALPS branding on the top housing of the switch, as they came out in the time when Alps had moved onto including branding on the top housings of their switches.
So these are either very OLD SKCM Lime, which is a bit unlikely, or clones.
Re: Price Check: How much is my _____ worth?
Posted: 07 Apr 2016, 11:33
by Spikebolt
E3E wrote:Spikebolt wrote: Thanks a lot for your feedback so far.
I'm unsure if they are simplified, complicated or genuine. How can I check that out? The lack of Alps branding would indicate clone though. EDIT: looking at the wiki it would appear the branding would be on bottom of the switch, not the top. I guess I'll have to desolder one to find out.
There are more ways to see if they are genuine or not, but I'm pretty sure I've seen a post on this one before, and they are clones.
Keep the above picture in mind as an identifier and do note that you can always open the switch while it's mounted to the board to look at its internals. Only complicated Alps has a plastic switch/contact plate. If it's a simple set of contact leaves, then it's either simplified Alps or a clone.
I managed to open the switch up without de soldering and confirmed that they are indeed clones.
