Re: Alps Appreciation
Posted: 12 Dec 2024, 00:16
Hi everybody. I recently won an auction for four vintage boards. One is a weird (likely) Clare Foam and Foil that's in terrible shape, but the rest are white Alps or clones. For those, I was hoping to get a little info and help.
First is a Tai Hao TH-5539-3 with clones. This one is in immaculate condition, a few scuffs on the bottom like it'd been moved around over the years, but still had the packaging plastic sleeve on the coiled cord and no crud or yellowing I can discern. However, it seems like it has a pretty poor design with its BAE, which has a horizontal Alps stabilizer on its "ANSI" half, and a simple post-in-sleeve for its "backslash" half. That top half binds terribly. It seems like other makers based their layout on ISO and had a vertical stab with a smaller post where the accent/backslash/etc. key would be. Focus even seems to have jammed an entire Costar cherry-mount stab into the top half. For the Tai Hao, is there anything to do, other than (for typing purposes) treat the board like an ANSI with its backslash moved elsewhere?
Next up is a Focus FK-5001. It had its cord cut, but with a Soarer's it is working well, despite needing a cleanup pretty badly. Genuine white Alps, and as mentioned a better design for the BAE. I am curious if anyone has ever found any electrical difference whatsoever between the two banks of F keys, such that I could remap the XT bank of F-keys or without affecting the other. Also wondering if anyone has managed any macro-magic on a converter to make the diagonal arrow keys work better. I assume the Turbo and and dedicated calc keys are a lost cause when it comes to remapping. Other Quality of Life thoughts would also be welcome, as right now all I've done is remap the "Macro" key to be a Windows key. My calculator currently works well.
Last one is a Focus 7000P with a trackball, also with White Alps, but in what was clearly a fit of corporate madness, the trackball pushes out the arrow keys and relegates them to mouse microswitches with no proper keycaps. This one is a bit of a mess, quite dirty, a broken "flap cap" on an arrow key. When I plugged in the same converter I made for the , there were lots of spamming presses and some that wouldn't work. It was also down an extra keycap compared to the 5001, so it donated one and is now missing three. My current plan is to (eventually) harvest the switches and caps (still the nice double-shot with color-coded mod legends) and put them in a DIY M0116-ish build and use the Tsangan style cluster as arrow keys. Is there any particular reason to hold onto a de-cord-itated trackball board versus stripping it for parts?
First is a Tai Hao TH-5539-3 with clones. This one is in immaculate condition, a few scuffs on the bottom like it'd been moved around over the years, but still had the packaging plastic sleeve on the coiled cord and no crud or yellowing I can discern. However, it seems like it has a pretty poor design with its BAE, which has a horizontal Alps stabilizer on its "ANSI" half, and a simple post-in-sleeve for its "backslash" half. That top half binds terribly. It seems like other makers based their layout on ISO and had a vertical stab with a smaller post where the accent/backslash/etc. key would be. Focus even seems to have jammed an entire Costar cherry-mount stab into the top half. For the Tai Hao, is there anything to do, other than (for typing purposes) treat the board like an ANSI with its backslash moved elsewhere?
Next up is a Focus FK-5001. It had its cord cut, but with a Soarer's it is working well, despite needing a cleanup pretty badly. Genuine white Alps, and as mentioned a better design for the BAE. I am curious if anyone has ever found any electrical difference whatsoever between the two banks of F keys, such that I could remap the XT bank of F-keys or without affecting the other. Also wondering if anyone has managed any macro-magic on a converter to make the diagonal arrow keys work better. I assume the Turbo and and dedicated calc keys are a lost cause when it comes to remapping. Other Quality of Life thoughts would also be welcome, as right now all I've done is remap the "Macro" key to be a Windows key. My calculator currently works well.
Last one is a Focus 7000P with a trackball, also with White Alps, but in what was clearly a fit of corporate madness, the trackball pushes out the arrow keys and relegates them to mouse microswitches with no proper keycaps. This one is a bit of a mess, quite dirty, a broken "flap cap" on an arrow key. When I plugged in the same converter I made for the , there were lots of spamming presses and some that wouldn't work. It was also down an extra keycap compared to the 5001, so it donated one and is now missing three. My current plan is to (eventually) harvest the switches and caps (still the nice double-shot with color-coded mod legends) and put them in a DIY M0116-ish build and use the Tsangan style cluster as arrow keys. Is there any particular reason to hold onto a de-cord-itated trackball board versus stripping it for parts?