deskthority

Muirium wrote: Those IKEA boxes… what's the story there? Are they hand halved versions of the big Jättene ones they sell?

Yes, exactly.

It was quite some work to cut them to size, but I didn't find a better format for a reasonable price, and they're very strong.

They're ridiculously expensive on the link you posted though. I paid 3€/2pcs in my local IKEA store.

That's just Britain. We may be in Europe, but we don't pay the same price as you guys. What a country.

Just arrived. I... oh god... I think I'm in love with the switches. Why does the keyboard rabbit hole have to be that deep?

Seriously though, I never understood how people could enjoy typing on Ms, apart from the funny sound, but this is better in every way. Now I just hope I get around to cleaning it and installing the teensy soon.

kekstee wrote: Just arrived. I... oh god... I think I'm in love with the switches. Why does the keyboard rabbit hole have to be that deep?

Seriously though, I never understood how people could enjoy typing on Ms, apart from the funny sound, but this is better in every way. Now I just hope I get around to cleaning it and installing the teensy soon.

How does a xwhatsit compares to a teensy mod?

kekstee wrote: Just arrived. I... oh god... I think I'm in love with the switches. Why does the keyboard rabbit hole have to be that deep?

Seriously though, I never understood how people could enjoy typing on Ms, apart from the funny sound, but this is better in every way. Now I just hope I get around to cleaning it and installing the teensy soon.

Pics or it didn't happen
Great to hear the positive comments, I really can't wait to get hands on mine.
Hype!

need wrote: How does a xwhatsit compares to a teensy mod?

It's my first board like this so I have no idea yet.
I think Soarers Controller should do the trick. (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=50437.0)

@Crossfire:

There is no hype. Only Model F.



Enjoy!

kekstee wrote:

need wrote: How does a xwhatsit compares to a teensy mod?

It's my first board like this so I have no idea yet.
I think Soarers Controller should do the trick. (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=50437.0)

@Crossfire:

It's....amazing! It really puts 99% of the boards to shame. Hot damn! And it's all true, too!

Beware though, from a quick look inside this will turn out to be a bigger restoration project. Unless I just ignore all the filth and rust on the metal inner assembly.

Now I like it even more!
She screams after restoration and that's what I'm really for! This looks to be a fun little project!
And looks like we'll have to powder coat the plate and maybe even the case.
Thanks for them pics, mein Freund!

Ouch. That reminds me of my Rustmaster Beamspring. Right down to the colour of the crud.

Wow, so beautiful! But she wouldn't mind a little sandy dandy, if you ask me

I agree with Crossfire, it just begs for a makeover, and it's always great to see a board restored. However, that foam will need replacing I believe, and that is somewhat trickier than vinegar/sanding/painting procedure for metal parts.

Exactly, we'll need to do it like this - http://m.imgur.com/a/VEEi1

Hah, nice find. The foam is the issue here, of course. How do we source that stuff in Europe?

But yeah, using it in its current state is a bit disgusting, and I'll have to adjust the spacebar wire anyway.

Hi Kekstee, Try some 2mm thick neoprene foam, it's what I use in my Bigfoots, and here is the hole cutting process, without whacking with a hammer like a maniac. Just a gentle twist with very sharp tools is needed.

The neoprene tends to resist sliding, so you may need to insert paper tabs against the edges of the foam sheet, to enable the front and back plates to be reassembled with the rubber foam inside. If you can find 2mm polyethylene foam (not the 3mm I originally tried) you might find the assembly slightly easier than with neoprene.

Thanks for the tips, tigpha. Really cool to know what's waiting for us
I've found a place I can buy those two punchers (2mm and 12mm) for 9 EUR regionally. Won't bother to get them from China for a little less...

You're all in for a real treat. There is no hype. Of all the keyboards I have tried so far, these are the pinnacle by a very wide margin. I have not yet found any other keyboard as pleasant to type on, and yet still a practical option for regular daily use.

Murium may mention Topre as an equal (or alternative) to The Model F, but I can't possibly judge, as I've not yet tried that variety.

The feel and sound of beamsprings are claimed to surpass Model F, but by Jove, those things are huge and heavy! Not practical for me.

I've restored a couple Bigfeet, and it's a treat compared to most things. The only issues that unique are the foam, the spacebar (XT style), and if you are planning on getting it to breathe USB.

This is a nice guide for the spacebar (you might as well lighten the actuation of it while you have it out): workshop-f7/model-f-improvement-dis-ass ... t6982.html

For the rust, just sand it really well down to bare metal (all visible RUST gone... okay if it looks "watermarked"), dry wipe well, then hit with an ETCHING metal primer. The cost for the etching variety is only slightly more, and is a considerably better move on bare metal. Then paint. I have only ever seen rust on top plates myself, but the bottom is nice and flat if wanting to do it too. Personally I like the look of two tone plates (top painted and bottom untouched).

If there are several of you actually trying to restore these, I would ask WCass (or maybe Muirium knows where to find) for the PDF of the barrel cutout, and have some place die cut several of them for one of you, and mail to each other. The cost of shipping foam is nothing, and could be in an envelope (it will straighten itself later when throwing the barrels in). Some place would do it cheap, turn out more consistent, and certainly save you time. Cutting 166 reasonably consistent holes takes a while (the most work of the whole project imo).

And then the USB... Khers' line sums up best...

Khers wrote: USB converting it was my first keyboard modification, easy peasy lemon squeezy.

Lots of great info chimming in, keep 'em coming folks, really appreciate it.
Link to the pdf of the barrell cutout: keyboards-f2/replacement-foam-mat-for-i ... 3-120.html

After sanding the plate I'd rather give it a nice black powder coating treatment so it will last another 30 some years easily...didn't make up my mind about coating the case too in a nice white...maybe some deep cleaning would help bring it back to its original shine

Detachable cable mod with soarers converter to top it off...what a project.

Crossfire wrote: After sanding the plate I'd rather give it a nice black powder coating treatment so it will last another 30 some years easily...didn't make up my mind about coating the case too in a nice white...maybe some deep cleaning would help bring it back to its original shine

Should turn out great... nice to see the Bigfoot getting some love.

Just a note on powdercoating, it will reduce the diameter of the top plate barrel cutouts. I can't remember the exact tolerance there, but it is possible you might need bore the paint out a little if they apply too much powder (no big deal, but just might require a little work on your end... at least for the top plate). Just for awareness, a bare metal etching primer actually contains an acid and zinc mixture along with an agent that acts as the primer when cured. It is not something you can even beadblast off without taking considerable amounts of metal with it. And it adds a much thinner surface that powder. If you are wanting a nice thick paint, an epoxy paint could then be used over the top.

I would google the difference between the processes before I jumped in, and the costs associated. Moral, either way will yield a finish that will outlive your grandchildren. Good luck!!!

Mine arrived yesterday as well, didn't open the box yet. Good thing the arduino micro was a week early.

I find that hammerd finish looks very good on the plate as it hides any pitting from the rust, sand it down and give it 2 coats.

it also makes the barrels a bit tighter so less movement from them .

http://www.hammerite.co.uk/products/dir ... finish.jsp


EDIT Example of silver on 122 plate

That looks beautiful...any pics of the assembled board?

andrewjoy wrote: EDIT Example of silver on 122 plate

I'm glad you posted that pic. I had forgotten the barrel "locks" on the F122 and the like are the same as the 4704. Gives another option for short-term barrels if we make the drop-in FSSK/FEXT project capable of using either barrel lock in the top plate

Crossfire wrote: That looks beautiful...any pics of the assembled board?

Will try to take some photos tonight , its nothing special when fully assembled just your normal 122 F but with silver on the back and between the keys

Awesome, I'd really like to see how it looks with silver plate.
Here is mine right after unboxing

Thanks Halvar, she's a beauty!

Oh a little tip. On the harsh marks try some of them metal scouring pads with the soap in them but do not press hard as you will remove the paint , think of it like exfoliating the surface .

Did clean the whole case with a brush and detergent yesterday. Soaked the caps and flippers in dental tab hot tub and now it's slowly coming together. Will sand the plates in the next days to remove the rust...I mean, there is a lot of rust inside...a lot.

These 32 years old dysub pbt caps are still in very good condition though, very high quality stuff, it's unbeliveable how they resist aging and the harsh condition through the years (especially in their "afterlife").

As likely as I'd like to spray paint the plate the more I'm inclined to do a proper blackish powder coat on them to keep it as stock as possible. That will last another lifetime easily.

Same stage, all parts in decent condition, apart from the plates.
I would love to save the backplate from a complete makeover, but I'm unsure what to do with it once I sanded down the cruddy bits on its edges.

The front one has to be sanded and soaked in something, maybe the white vinegar + spray paint solution from the imgur album would be sufficient, unsure about that one though. Maybe a more "professional" approach is called for.

//e

Soaked the caps and flippers in dental tab hot tub and now it's slowly coming together.

Unsure about the flippers. Flippers and springs look quite nice currently. Did you coat them with something after washing?