deskthority

It's nice to have ports on the controller maped in order to rows and columns (e.g. PB0 to row0, PB1to row1...) as it makes the code simpler. But you can have them at random also, you just have to use more if statements or mapping tables.

Just want to revive this with an important question:
There are 3 pins on those mouse-button switches (like Omron D2FC or Cherry DG).

Why 3 and which should I connect?

Also: still need to know which scroll wheel to use.

The switch is probably closed between two of the pins when not pressed and one of them and the third pin when pressed. Thoes are just micro switches used for many other things than mice? I guess the ones that are closed when the switch is pressed?

It's multimeter time.

It's tongue-and-battery time.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Test-th ... ur-Tongue/

Thanks!

Let me know what the outcome of your multimetering is.

So I cheated…

Omron D2FC.


Cherry DB.


Maybe Soarer will oblige in interpreting these complex schematics for you…

Cherry DB is the wrong one (too large). The DG is the one which replaces D2F.

I still need to know how to connect to the Teensy.

About the scroll-wheel: I am not sure where to source it from, but would it be possible to get a similar-sized one as on the CST Ltrac-X mouse?

Imagining how it would be used on a Keyboard, the best position for one would be either at the bottom (to be used with your thumbs), or at the sides of the keyboard, maybe right next to the Tab key, protruding to the left.

Hm, maybe something like the Rollermouse Free has?

Ideally, it will be the RollerMouse Free2-scroll-wheel.

Maybe we should just buy some new mice and take all components including controller.

I would prefer a trackpoint and a modkey (or just mbutton) + movement = scrolling; just like on ThinkPads. I have yet to find a better and faster way to scroll than that.

There must be someone who knows the answer:


How do I connect those 3 pins?

7bit wrote:There must be someone who knows the answer:


How do I connect those 3 pins?

look the switch with the small button on the left.

the first two pins on the left create the short. I believe that the first and the third are always shorted until you click (so they work inverted compared to the first two)

OK, thanks. If anything goes wrong, I will tell people your address ...

What I need to know: Is it sufficient to connect just 2 pins or are all 3 needed in order to make these mouse buttons work the way they should.

On my Rollermouse I can only see one trace leading to the center pin.

Also: Do I need diodes, and where should they go?

the switch is built so that you can use it to close or open the circuit.

pins 1 + 3 = click opens the circuit
pins 1 + 2 = click closes the circuit

you can easily check this with a multimeter. I don't have that switch so I cannot check myself.

To use it as a mouse button you don't need to connect all of them. Just the first two.

Diodes are needed only if you use them in a matrix I believe. If you connect them straight to a teensy pin you don't need them.

I think you can connect them in the matrix the same way as keyboard keys, I don't see a down side of that. Maybe add some soldering pads too if someone wants to connect a separate mouse controller.

Muirium wrote:Maybe Soarer will oblige in interpreting these complex schematics for you…

You'd think... wouldn't you... but...

7bit wrote:

philpirj wrote:You will need 1N4148 diodes. Choose SMD. It's even a better idea to order MX switches with built-in diodes, that will simplify PCB design dramatically. Unfortunately I haven't seen those being popular in group buys.

Thanks for the diode-specification.


The switches I sell will never ever come with diodes, because
- they are not available from my source.
- they would not be suitable for my PCB-design, because in their place are the holes for the LEDs.

However, you can pop the case and populate them with signal diodes yourself and things will be fine. I know this because I've done it.