deskthority

my friend found these at her job in storage. She got them all for free
they are all pretty late model ms, from 97,99,02 respectively. Because of that they don't feel too good so im thinking about swapping an older keyboard module into one of the industrial cases. Is this easy to do?
The two industrial m's are fully functional but the m122 is ghosting and just freaking out in general so im not sure whats wrong with it. maybe after cleaning it up it will work better because its super dirty.

Damn your lucky! You thinking of keeping the boards or perhaps selling one off?

As for swapping it is easy, but you got to keep in mind that you will need a specific socket to undo the bottom screws holding the case together

You should be able to grab a 7/32" deep socket on amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=7%2F32%22+de ... _sb_noss_2

You may also want to look into bolt/screwing modding too if your having issues with your keys

ArtyomTheMetroHopper wrote: 07 Dec 2022, 15:21 Damn your lucky! You thinking of keeping the boards or perhaps selling one off?

i will not be selling them

ArtyomTheMetroHopper wrote: 07 Dec 2022, 15:26 You should be able to grab a 7/32" deep socket on amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=7%2F32%22+de ... _sb_noss_2

You may also want to look into bolt/screwing modding too if your having issues with your keys

i have the tools to open them already. The two industrial ms only have like 1/2 broken rivets. The m122 has like 8. Im not sure if that's enough to cause these issues or not.

I have a model M blue badge with 3 rivets gone that has not affected too badly, but if your m122 is having issues with key registering and has 8 rivets missing already that is the most likely culprit

I second the suggestion that a thorough cleaning and a bolt mod will likely solve your "feel" problems.

edit - 1 or 2 broken rivets could cause that area to feel "soft" but there are other use or wear-related faults that could be in play.

fohat wrote: I second the suggestion that a thorough cleaning and a bolt mod will likely solve your "feel" problems.

Do late model m's with a plastic barrel plate not feel worse than early m's? All the keys feel consistent its just consistently average. Compared to one from 1988 at my school all the keys are less smooth and the tactility doesn't feel as crisp.

The 122 definitely sounds like it has a loose ribbon or something shorting on the membrane. Try unseating and reseating the ribbons a few times to break up any corrosion. A quick clean of the ribbon and connector with isopropyl would also be a good idea. Give the controller a good visual check and maybe clean it off with compressed air. There's a good chance a bit of conductive debris found its way in and is now shorting something. If the issues are still present then you'd need to pull apart the barrel assembly and check out the membrane itself. Unicomp sells new ones for <$20 so it's usually best to just replace them rather than mess with conductive paint or anything.

Rezene wrote: 07 Dec 2022, 15:38

fohat wrote: I second the suggestion that a thorough cleaning and a bolt mod will likely solve your "feel" problems.

Do late model m's with a plastic barrel plate not feel worse than early m's? All the keys feel consistent its just consistently average. Compared to one from 1988 at my school all the keys are less smooth and the tactility doesn't feel as crisp.

I have never used a plastic barrel plate M, but apparently there is a subtle difference due to the way the plate can flex (think gasket board designs). But usually its the sound that people point out more than the tactility. Again I can't really say from experience but that's what I have heard from people comparing early and late designs.

ArtyomTheMetroHopper wrote: 07 Dec 2022, 15:43

Rezene wrote: 07 Dec 2022, 15:38

fohat wrote: I second the suggestion that a thorough cleaning and a bolt mod will likely solve your "feel" problems.

Do late model m's with a plastic barrel plate not feel worse than early m's? All the keys feel consistent its just consistently average. Compared to one from 1988 at my school all the keys are less smooth and the tactility doesn't feel as crisp.

I have never used a plastic barrel plate M, but apparently there is a subtle difference due to the way the plate can flex (think gasket board designs). But usually its the sound that people point out more than the tactility. Again I can't really say from experience but that's what I have heard from people comparing early and late designs.

I may also just be slightly spoiled coming from daily driving a model f xt

ArtyomTheMetroHopper wrote: 07 Dec 2022, 15:43

Rezene wrote: 07 Dec 2022, 15:38

fohat wrote: I second the suggestion that a thorough cleaning and a bolt mod will likely solve your "feel" problems.

Do late model m's with a plastic barrel plate not feel worse than early m's? All the keys feel consistent its just consistently average. Compared to one from 1988 at my school all the keys are less smooth and the tactility doesn't feel as crisp.

I have never used a plastic barrel plate M, but apparently there is a subtle difference due to the way the plate can flex (think gasket board designs). But usually its the sound that people point out more than the tactility. Again I can't really say from experience but that's what I have heard from people comparing early and late designs.

Differences are more likely due to thickness and materials of metal plates (rather than plastic barrel plate)


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