deskthority

Part 1
This is description of my process restoring a 1985 IBM F107. For reference this keyboard is from the IBM 4704 terminal computers used at banks in the 1980s. You can find more info on the 4704 keyboards here: http://kishy.ca/?p=648

I have reproduction F77 and love it but also need a full size keyboard with a numpad. This was on my “white whale” wish list and I was fortunately able to get one. This isn’t a guide but I hope you find it useful. I relied on others experience for help and you might also find them useful:
4704 Model F 107-key Restoration Log

[Restoration] IBM 4704 F77 FINISHED

IBM 107 Key Model F 4704 Restoration Thread

IBM 107 Key Model F 6020218 Restoration Work Thread

I’m not the first to do this and hopefully not the last! Without further ado, here we go!

Tools used:
1. Normal size flathead screwdriver
2. Large size flathead screwdriver
3. Clamps
4. Channel lock pliers
5. Hex bit and driver

Items used for cleaning:
1. Denture cleaner or any cleaner good for key caps
2. 90% or greater isopropyl alcohol to clean the PCB
3. Scrubbing pad
4. Sand paper (80 to 100 grit)
5. Toothbrush

Items used for restoration:
1. Rustoleum Rust Reformer (I used black but any color is OK)
2. Medium-Large cardboard box to paint barrel plate
3. Two Blocks to Rest Barrel Plate on for Barrel and Flipper Installation
4. Replacement foam
5. Vertical and horizontal stabilizers for ANSI conversion

I’d recommend replacing the foam if you’re opening the barrel assembly. My F107 was 37 years old and the foam completely disintegrated when I touched it. Not replacing it could cause it to further disintegrate which could cause problems like loose barrels and debris affecting the switch contact.

If you are going to sand and paint the barrel plate then you should plan to replace the foam. I purchased replacement foam from this eBay seller and from Ellipse who executes the New Model F program.

My F107 is original except for an Xwhatsit controller.
First I removed and cleaned the key caps. I only reused the top row numbers keys but wanted to make sure all were clean for storage. I put the keys in a mason jar and cleaned them with denture tabs.
After the denture clean bath I put them in an ultrasonic cleaner and rinsed them.
The keys take a while to completely dry so I left them out for several days. I would recommend putting a fan on them if you want them to dry faster.
Next I unscrewed the case screws which requires a hex bit.
Closeup of hex screw:
Once the screws are off the back case can be removed:
There’s another hex screw holding the cable coming from the controller and after that’s removed the inner assembly can be removed.
The barrel plate was pretty dirty. I suspected the foam was in bad shape, so the barrel plate would need to be removed.
The barrel plate is secured to the back plate with locking tabs that slide together and one that’s bent down onto the back plate.
Sliding locking tabs:
Bent locking tab:
I used a pair of needle nose pliers to bend the locking tab back:
After the locking tab was bent back the barrel plate needed to be pushed away from the sliding tabs. I put a large flathead screwdriver in between the barrel plate and backing plate that rises to secure to the case and twisted to easily push the barrel plate away and slide it from the locking tabs:
I opened the assembly and could see the original foam was in pretty bad shape:
The foam is interesting in how shiny it appears. Closeup of the original foam:
Next I removed all of the flippers and barrels:
I decided to clean the barrels the same way I cleaned the keys using denture cleaning tablets:
I added the tablets first, then the barrels:
Then water to created a nice, bubbly barrel soup:
I let the barrels soak for an hour or so and noticed the foam didn’t completely come off, so I used an old electric toothbrush to remove the remaining foam. I used an old baking tray to keep track of the barrels:
It was tedious and took a long time to clean them all, but the barrels were just like new after:
Then I let them dry near an open window:
Next I had to remove the stabilizers from the barrel plate. I remember reading they are fragile and could break easily and that it was next to impossible to remove them without breaking one and I came close, but did break one using my method. The stabilizers are plastic so I put the barrel plate on a towel to catch the stabilizer after pushing it through with a flathead screwdriver. I used a screwdriver head that perfectly fit into the notch in the back of the stabilizer:
Next I cleaned the barrel plate, running it under water and using a scrubbing pad to remove the remaining foam and debris:
The barrel plate was clean, but showing signs of corrosion and pitting. It needed to be painted so next was sanding to prep for paint.
I used a rough (100-120 grit) sanding block to get the original paint off and any rust.
I kept sanding until you could see mostly metal.
The corrosion was more apparent after the sanding.
I chose Rust-oleom Rust Reformer because I had it laying around in the garage and it seemed like it would work.
I sprayed several coats, waiting a day after each coat based on the experience of another person’s restoration, to ensure a good seal.
After a few coats it looked brand new!
Closeup of the back of of the barrel plate showing the part number?
I then cleaned the foam on the back plate with an alcohol pad.
Along with the PCB. Note: I learned on a Focus keyboard using less than 90% alcohol results in an opaque film on the PCB. I don’t think the film damages the PCB, but I recommend using a higher concentration to be safe.
Next I reinstalled the spacebar stabilizers. These are plastic, old and might not survive the reinstallation, so I recommend having a backup plan. My backup was to use steel spacebar tabs from the New Model F project. These would need to be glued to the barrel plate but would be a good replacement. You could also make your own by bending a small steel tab and gluing it to the barrel plate, or 3-D print a “U”.
https://www.modelfkeyboards.com/product ... tabs-pair/
The F107 spacebar stabilizer wire has a shorter height than the Model M, so I recommend keeping it unless you can install new stabilizer inserts.
The Model M stabilizer wire is thicker, and can’t be used with the original stabilizer inserts:
The original F107 stabilizer is made of several parts, with thicker pieces attached to the end to fit the spacebar.
The thicker piece allows the wire to fit in the original F107 and new Model M spacebars.
I installed the inserts without breaking them by fitting a small flathead screwdriver into the insert and pressing down into the barrel plate.

Part 2

Next I put a new foam mat onto the back of the barrel plate.
I mounted the barrel plate onto two blocks of wood to raise it from the desk, allowing me to insert the barrels.
Next I installed the flippers. I’m converting the layout to ANSI, so I didn’t install flippers for the backspace, right and left shift.
Then the back plate goes back on.
I flipped over there assembly and clamped the top and bottom together to make sliding the the back plate into he barrel plate locking tabs easier.
I slide the two pieces together I inserted a large flathead screwdriver between the mounting bracket and barrel plate and turned it, pushing the barrel plate into the back plate slots.
Then I bent the one tab that was originally bent.
Next the horizontal and vertical stabilizers needed to be installed. I opened up my New Model M to use as a reference.
Then came the floss mod. I think the floss cleans up the sound and removes most of the resonance from the springs, perfecting the sound (in my opinion )
I installed the keys starting with the ones using stabilizers. Just in case there was an issue.
I was using a key set from the New Model F project and it came with its own stabilizers which ensures compatibility, but I wound up having one issue with the + key. My fix was to use rubber bands to offset the barrel a bit which gave it the right orientation and allows the key to work perfectly.
Finally it gets all buttoned up and is ready to go! I’m using the xwhatsit software to define keys and have had no issues.

Fantastic work! It takes courage to tackle restoration of something as rare and desirable as an F107!

Indeed, looks great. I love the overall configuration of it and ANSI mod. I kept the Num Pad with all individual keys as it gives me a bit more room for additional keys (as if they are needed on a F107 ). You also did catch an F107 in good shape. I need to powder coat mine at some point.

Excellent work! Thanks for sharing the process. I love seeing care and effort go into restoring stuff.

Fantastic job.

Your thoroughness and photographic skills put my clumsy ancient attempt at this to shame.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=76 ... msg1900511

fohat wrote: 13 Jan 2023, 15:40 Fantastic job.

Your thoroughness and photographic skills put my clumsy ancient attempt at this to shame.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=76 ... msg1900511

Full credit goes to you and the others that I researched to ensure success.

Sheepless, this was my first Model F restoration and I was nervous but can say it's not that bad to restore and very forgiving. If go slow and take your time you're almost certain to be successful. Model Fs are built very well and can be forgiving if you make a mistake.

thefarside wrote: 13 Jan 2023, 16:28
it's not that bad to restore and very forgiving. If go slow and take your time you're almost certain to be successful.

This is certainly true.

A Model F "restoration" is literally just taking it apart and putting it back together again, repairing anything that needs repair or replacement along the way. And unlike some others (cough Model M cough), Fs were made to be repairable.

and PS - if you aren't afraid of a bit of very basic Dremel work, adding those "Alt" keys to an F AT is really not that challenging.

I gave a quick glance to your post, promising to myself to deep in later and i liked your job. Well done and welcome to the F107 club, my most satisfying model F. Mine went to the chrome-plating shop.

Wow! That looks great! Thanks!

dcopellino wrote: 13 Jan 2023, 19:40 I gave a quick glance to your post, promising to myself to deep in later and i liked your job. Well done and welcome to the F107 club, my most satisfying model F.IMG_20210403_123217.jpg
Mine went to the chrome-plating shop.

I always loved that chrome look ... amazing.
When I restored mine it was super simple, but meanwhile it is beaten up again (regular paint out of the can is not what you want to use).

Great work. I like that you only did the essentials and left the original paint on the case. Mine was powder coated before I acquired it.

I’ve considered painting mine and ordered a set of dark grey caps from ellipse thinking I’d go for an industrial look, but don’t want to alter the original paint because it’s in good shape. I wonder if I could use something like plasti dip to have a new color but preserve the original paint?

Just because I installed the dark grey keys and the contrast was a little too much for me

Nice job, and curious to see that fix with the rubber bands. I would suggest using polyurethane plastibands instead, as the rubber ones will wear off and release the pressure pretty quickly.

thefarside wrote: 14 Jan 2023, 15:04 I’ve considered painting mine and ordered a set of dark grey caps from ellipse thinking I’d go for an industrial look, but don’t want to alter the original paint because it’s in good shape. I wonder if I could use something like plasti dip to have a new color but preserve the original paint?

Just because I installed the dark grey keys and the contrast was a little too much for me
IMG_7437.jpg

I've worked with plasti dip before. It is really forgiving stuff. That's some really old paint that looks like it is already chipped in at least one place though. I know I wouldn't risk making it worse myself.

If you wait a few decades, yours might be the only beige one left. lol

inmbolmie is right about the rubber bands. They're going to turn into goo eventually.

Thanks I'll switch to polyurethane bands. I don't want any surprises if/when the rubber bands go. I'm definitely going to preserve the paint, but I might look into plasti dip if it's safe. If not it'll stay original.

I Want an F107

Don't we all?
Never give up hope, brother

I sometimes daydream about finding various keyboard unobtainium for cheap at a yard sale. Though I'm not sure I could ethically give a grieving widow pennies for her late husband's "garage full of junk" when it's actually worth a fortune.

The trouble is if you offer her anything like market price, you'll pop her illusion this stuff is all more trouble than it's worth. Heaven forfend: she might even look it up on ebay! The next you'll hear about it is an alert for a sky high priced, hyped up version of the same thing you were just looking at, and will never see again. Danger…

This was a message from the Devil's Advocate. Wherever there's a doubt, there's a well meaning devil.

Sheepless wrote: 17 Jan 2023, 11:52
I could ethically give a grieving widow pennies for her late husband's

There are workarounds.

You could say something like "I had one of these years ago until it finally broke. A few months ago I saw one in a 2nd hand shop for $50 but passed it up, and when I went back the next week it was gone. I really should give you $75 for it."

She would be delighted, at both the money and your honesty, and it will seem like a plausible explanation. I have done that sort of thing a couple of times and still paid a fraction of the actual market value. Because if you don't get it for pennies somebody else will.

Love the fresh look of a painted barrel plate. An often overlooked detail that you don't really see once everything is put back together. Also it looks like I am going to need to find more clamps...

Sheepless wrote: 17 Jan 2023, 11:52 I sometimes daydream about finding various keyboard unobtainium for cheap at a yard sale. Though I'm not sure I could ethically give a grieving widow pennies for her late husband's "garage full of junk" when it's actually worth a fortune.

You never know. The 4704 keyboards were exclusively used by banks which makes finding them very difficult. Although one user found an F77 in a pile of garbage outside a bank. If I see treasure hunting opportunity I’ll usually check it out.