Cut Model F Cable
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- Location: Scotland
- Main keyboard: A zoom TKL B) (not vintage, i know)
- Main mouse: some wacky £20 sideyways one
- Favorite switch: Honestly, probably white alps
Hiya, let me know if I've done something wrong, first time posting.
I recently got my Model F XT for a very reasonable price - the catch was a cut cable. Ideally I'd get a replacement cable then buy a premade converter as making my own converters has done me no good, but on the rare occasion that a model f cable pops up it tends to cost almost the same as the board I'd be buying it for.
Is my only avenue wiring a teensy to the remnants of cable left in the case, or is there another solution?
Thanks!
I recently got my Model F XT for a very reasonable price - the catch was a cut cable. Ideally I'd get a replacement cable then buy a premade converter as making my own converters has done me no good, but on the rare occasion that a model f cable pops up it tends to cost almost the same as the board I'd be buying it for.
Is my only avenue wiring a teensy to the remnants of cable left in the case, or is there another solution?
Thanks!
- fohat
- Elder Messenger
- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee, USA
- Main keyboard: Model F 122-key terminal
- Main mouse: Microsoft Optical Mouse
- Favorite switch: Model F Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0158
Hard-wiring a Teensy inside the case, with a USB cable ready to plug-and-play with modern computers without drama, seems like the ideal scenario to me.
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- Location: Scotland
- Main keyboard: A zoom TKL B) (not vintage, i know)
- Main mouse: some wacky £20 sideyways one
- Favorite switch: Honestly, probably white alps
Alright thanks so much, I'm hoping this one'll be a bit easier than my ongoing ADB projectfohat wrote: 27 May 2023, 16:43 Hard-wiring a Teensy inside the case, with a USB cable ready to plug-and-play with modern computers without drama, seems like the ideal scenario to me.
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
Definitely try Soarer’s converter. You’ll find instructions how to wire your teensy there as well as how to use his excellent firmware.
I ran it on an XT myself for many years. Highly recommended!
I ran it on an XT myself for many years. Highly recommended!
- MathematicalJ
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: Ergodox Moonlander
- Main mouse: Trackpad
- Favorite switch: MX Browns
- Contact:
I just happen to be dealing with the exact same situation as OP.
TMK has a converter. Someone ported it to QMK, made a PR, and then closed it, so if you know a little about git and compiling software, you could probably use QMK also, which means you aren't tied to Atmega microcontrollers. Slap it on a $2 blue pill, and Bob's your uncle.
The reason I opted against Soarer's converter is because it is closed source, hasn't been updated since 2013, and as far as I know the author hasn't been heard from since 2014. On the other hand, I do think it's reasonable to take the position that, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. In other words, Soarer's converter is "done," so doesn't need maintenance, and it's been field tested enough to be confident it works. I would feel more confident with the software for the thing I type my passwords and everything else into being open source.Muirium wrote: 28 May 2023, 14:56 Definitely try Soarer’s converter. …I ran it on an XT myself for many years. Highly recommended!
TMK has a converter. Someone ported it to QMK, made a PR, and then closed it, so if you know a little about git and compiling software, you could probably use QMK also, which means you aren't tied to Atmega microcontrollers. Slap it on a $2 blue pill, and Bob's your uncle.
- Polecat
- Location: Downstream from Silicon Valley
- Main keyboard: Monterey K104 Industrial Gray
- Main mouse: Logitech Optical
- Favorite switch: Early Alps SKCM
- DT Pro Member: -
Why not just splice a new DIN5 (or PS/2) cable onto the remnant of the original cable and use a plug-in converter?podgen wrote: 27 May 2023, 11:58
Is my only avenue wiring a teensy to the remnants of cable left in the case, or is there another solution?
Thanks!
-
- Location: Scotland
- Main keyboard: A zoom TKL B) (not vintage, i know)
- Main mouse: some wacky £20 sideyways one
- Favorite switch: Honestly, probably white alps
that is a good point. I think if the barrier for entry for TMK wasn't so high, i totally would use that for everything - but trying to program an adb converter has meant much stress and learning that honestly doesn't seem worth.MathematicalJ wrote: 28 May 2023, 20:02 I just happen to be dealing with the exact same situation as OP.
The reason I opted against Soarer's converter is because it is closed source, hasn't been updated since 2013, and as far as I know the author hasn't been heard from since 2014. On the other hand, I do think it's reasonable to take the position that, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. In other words, Soarer's converter is "done," so doesn't need maintenance, and it's been field tested enough to be confident it works. I would feel more confident with the software for the thing I type my passwords and everything else into being open source.Muirium wrote: 28 May 2023, 14:56 Definitely try Soarer’s converter. …I ran it on an XT myself for many years. Highly recommended!
TMK has a converter. Someone ported it to QMK, made a PR, and then closed it, so if you know a little about git and compiling software, you could probably use QMK also, which means you aren't tied to Atmega microcontrollers. Slap it on a $2 blue pill, and Bob's your uncle.
i ended up buying a teensy and did an internal conversion with soarer's, you have no idea (you probably do) how lovely it is just being able to install the hex file like that
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- Location: Scotland
- Main keyboard: A zoom TKL B) (not vintage, i know)
- Main mouse: some wacky £20 sideyways one
- Favorite switch: Honestly, probably white alps
awh that would've made sense, i can't quite find it in myself to dismantle a vintage keyboard for the cable though! I ended up going for an internal conversion, but if i want the cable to be detachable i need to file the case a little bit

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- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: i-Rocks compact
- Main mouse: Logitech Trackman
- Favorite switch: IBM buckling spring
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R ... =0&_sop=15
Lot of 5 DIN 5 male connectors for US$2.86.
The pinout is on the web.
Lot of 5 DIN 5 male connectors for US$2.86.
The pinout is on the web.
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- Location: Scotland
- Main keyboard: A zoom TKL B) (not vintage, i know)
- Main mouse: some wacky £20 sideyways one
- Favorite switch: Honestly, probably white alps
Oh really? I've internally modded now but I will forever miss the original cable - no promises, but how much might you want for it?Muirium wrote: 16 Jun 2023, 16:54 Ah, but those are cheap feeling crap though. You want the original cable?
I did salvage one just recently…
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
Similar story to my own. I nodded my AT to a USB C port on the back (its cable had disintegrated into a sticky rubber ooze) but there’s something right about the big original IBM cable and its plug, so I salvaged one from an XT that I parted out. Don’t think I’ll actually undo my USB mod to put it into the AT, but the original aesthetic is ever tempting.
- fohat
- Elder Messenger
- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee, USA
- Main keyboard: Model F 122-key terminal
- Main mouse: Microsoft Optical Mouse
- Favorite switch: Model F Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0158
This has been my experience with the overwhelming majority of the original black IBM cables of that era.
I have gotten them in the original styrofoam and found the little white balls melded into them. Yuck!
- LambdaCore
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: HHKB Professional Classic (currently in rotation)
- Main mouse: Logitech MX518
- Favorite switch: Capacitive Buckling Springs
I wonder if you couldn't attempt to reuse the rubber cable housing over a USB cable, of course that sounds like a lot more work than simply finding a working old black IBM cable and wiring a USB A end to it and soldering the end of the wire to a USB converter. Besides that, you could probably find industrial grade coiled USB cables that look and feel similar enough, at least to a point (it's hard to top early 80's IBM build quality!)
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
When a cable’s cut off, you don’t typically get the cable. 
That rubber cable housing is the bit that so often melts into sticky inky ooze, as well.

That rubber cable housing is the bit that so often melts into sticky inky ooze, as well.
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- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: i-Rocks compact
- Main mouse: Logitech Trackman
- Favorite switch: IBM buckling spring
6-conductor coil cable, up to 3.75 meters, on eBay:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/354844841520
It's shiny black instead of flat black like the original IBMs.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/354844841520
It's shiny black instead of flat black like the original IBMs.
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- Location: Scotland
- Main keyboard: A zoom TKL B) (not vintage, i know)
- Main mouse: some wacky £20 sideyways one
- Favorite switch: Honestly, probably white alps
that sounds interesting - i honestly think it would be easier to get a cablemod one made. after i usb modded my F i'm now using a coiled, black but braided cable that i got with my zoom tkl. It's a nice homage to the original.LambdaCore wrote: 21 Jun 2023, 08:11 I wonder if you couldn't attempt to reuse the rubber cable housing over a USB cable, of course that sounds like a lot more work than simply finding a working old black IBM cable and wiring a USB A end to it and soldering the end of the wire to a USB converter. Besides that, you could probably find industrial grade coiled USB cables that look and feel similar enough, at least to a point (it's hard to top early 80's IBM build quality!)