I just found a 1988 IBM Model M
- Julle
- Location: Finland
- Main keyboard: Wooting Two HE
- Main mouse: CST L-trac
- Favorite switch: Lekker Hall effect
- DT Pro Member: -
I came across this Model M in a local recycling facility. It is very dirty, and I'm giving it the best of my TLC as we speak.
This is hardcore!
The only problem so far has been that pressing the letter H produces the letter Y. I need some help troubleshooting, where should I start?
Anyway, this thread is worthless without pics, so here we go!
This is hardcore!
The only problem so far has been that pressing the letter H produces the letter Y. I need some help troubleshooting, where should I start?
Anyway, this thread is worthless without pics, so here we go!
- lootbag
- Location: Hong Kong
- Main keyboard: HHKB, Duck Viper
- Main mouse: Slimblade, G502
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
This reminds me of when I found my Model M at my father's workplace in the back of a closet.
And yes, I had to spend a good amount of time cleaning it up but when that was all said and done, it was good as new.
Hopefully, you can get that H produces Y issue sorted out; I won't be much help because I do not know much technical stuff.
(PS I am typing on the Model M right now
)
And yes, I had to spend a good amount of time cleaning it up but when that was all said and done, it was good as new.
Hopefully, you can get that H produces Y issue sorted out; I won't be much help because I do not know much technical stuff.
(PS I am typing on the Model M right now

- webwit
- Wild Duck
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: Model F62
- Favorite switch: IBM beam spring
- DT Pro Member: 0000
- Contact:
I bet another key is stuck.
- Julle
- Location: Finland
- Main keyboard: Wooting Two HE
- Main mouse: CST L-trac
- Favorite switch: Lekker Hall effect
- DT Pro Member: -
Oh crap. Testing this on Aquakeytest showed more similar flaws: numpad 0 and comma produce numpad 5 and 6, both G and H produce different letters, left Alt doesn't seem to work...
I hope this isn't FUBAR!
I hope this isn't FUBAR!
- webwit
- Wild Duck
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: Model F62
- Favorite switch: IBM beam spring
- DT Pro Member: 0000
- Contact:
I'm still betting one of the keys is making contact without you noticing it. Hit them keys, train 'em.
- Julle
- Location: Finland
- Main keyboard: Wooting Two HE
- Main mouse: CST L-trac
- Favorite switch: Lekker Hall effect
- DT Pro Member: -
I've now removed the keys (lovely 2-part caps) and 80 percent of what I believe is 20 years of encrusted cum and pizza drippings. I hope messing with the keys will help.
Webwit, I believe you're right about the stuck key. While I removed the keys, I noticed that the up arrow was slightly stuck and out of place. I really hope this helps. I've been looking for an M for such a long time.
Webwit, I believe you're right about the stuck key. While I removed the keys, I noticed that the up arrow was slightly stuck and out of place. I really hope this helps. I've been looking for an M for such a long time.
- sixty
- Gasbag Guru
- Main keyboard: DKSaver
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Black
- DT Pro Member: 0060
Julle wrote:of what I believe is 20 years of encrusted cum and pizza drippings

- lootbag
- Location: Hong Kong
- Main keyboard: HHKB, Duck Viper
- Main mouse: Slimblade, G502
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
Aww gross.
Mine was bad, but yours is worse.
I used compressed air and a lot of Q tips to clean the my Model M.
How do these keyboards get so gunky anyways?
The stuff you find underneath the keys is crazy.
Mine was bad, but yours is worse.
I used compressed air and a lot of Q tips to clean the my Model M.
How do these keyboards get so gunky anyways?
The stuff you find underneath the keys is crazy.
- sixty
- Gasbag Guru
- Main keyboard: DKSaver
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Black
- DT Pro Member: 0060
They last forever! Meaning you can literally find 30 years of dirty inside in the worst case scenario.lootbag wrote: How do these keyboards get so gunky anyways?
The stuff you find underneath the keys is crazy.
- Julle
- Location: Finland
- Main keyboard: Wooting Two HE
- Main mouse: CST L-trac
- Favorite switch: Lekker Hall effect
- DT Pro Member: -
Interesting. Now the keys that previously malfunctioned won't function at all. I'd crack this board open in a heartbeat, but I don't have a tool small enough to open the bolts (cue Ripster showing off his).
- webwit
- Wild Duck
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: Model F62
- Favorite switch: IBM beam spring
- DT Pro Member: 0000
- Contact:
I've seen lam47 open it with a plastic pan.
You take the cap of the back, and heat the pen with a lighter to a point where the plastic gets soft. You push it down on the bolt and wait till it gets hard again. You turn the pen. You break the pen. (When I tried it) Oh well.

You take the cap of the back, and heat the pen with a lighter to a point where the plastic gets soft. You push it down on the bolt and wait till it gets hard again. You turn the pen. You break the pen. (When I tried it) Oh well.
- Julle
- Location: Finland
- Main keyboard: Wooting Two HE
- Main mouse: CST L-trac
- Favorite switch: Lekker Hall effect
- DT Pro Member: -
So. the board has had time to rest, it's all cleaned up. I have tried looking for a stuck key. Still I have nonfunctional keys on G, H, Ä, left ALT, numpad 0 and numpad comma.
What could cause something like this? Bad rivets - could a bolt mod save this thing? Could it have a broken membrane? Is the controller faulty? This board is too nice to give up.
What could cause something like this? Bad rivets - could a bolt mod save this thing? Could it have a broken membrane? Is the controller faulty? This board is too nice to give up.
- daedalus
- Buckler Of Springs
- Location: Ireland
- Main keyboard: Model M SSK (home) HHKB Pro 2 (work)
- Main mouse: CST Lasertrack, Logitech MX Master
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring, Beam Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0087
Try cleaning the contacts on the ribbon cable connecting into the controller.
The Model M is such a simple design that unless something has gone wrong with the controller electronics, you can fix just about anything. Even then, you can get your hands on a new controller from somewhere or other.
The Model M is such a simple design that unless something has gone wrong with the controller electronics, you can fix just about anything. Even then, you can get your hands on a new controller from somewhere or other.
- keyb_gr
- Main keyboard: G80-3000LFADE/HAD mix w/ da blues
- Main mouse: humble M-BJ58
- Favorite switch: MX blues, or BS when wrists are cooperating
- DT Pro Member: -
Looking at that label, it wants to be put in its proper place badly. Just curious - are there any proven methods for that? Would sixty's (with hairdryer) apply here?
As for the functional problems, these are odd. Normally I'd say spill damage (the Y/H cross-linking would be an indication, too), but the non-functional keys are spread over the board quite a bit. 'fraid it'll need a bolt mod and membrane cleaning. Obviously sucks if that's your first M...
As for the functional problems, these are odd. Normally I'd say spill damage (the Y/H cross-linking would be an indication, too), but the non-functional keys are spread over the board quite a bit. 'fraid it'll need a bolt mod and membrane cleaning. Obviously sucks if that's your first M...
- sixty
- Gasbag Guru
- Main keyboard: DKSaver
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Black
- DT Pro Member: 0060
I think the hairdryer method would work. User "mass" here has reported that he removes labels with a hairdryer for custom case dye jobs too. I just wouldn't know how to best re-apply them, but that should be the easier part.