deskthority

I've got an update regarding my warn paint.

Three months ago I received a replacement case for my f62 because the paint did not last at all. I'm pleased to say that the new case is holding up perfectly. There is no wear to speak off. The paint hasn't softened and rubbed off like my last case. My ...

> For those reporting this, are your findings more prominent with a particular key size, mold cavity number, or key color?

I'm noticing it is worst on keys that I routinely press off-centre. I've so far replaced the barrels and caps of the E, F, Tab and Caps-Lock keys. They are all still okay after ...

I put the caps and barrels I replaced aside and just checked over them now. The barrels each have distinct wear marks where they stem has rubbed. I cannot fault mbarszcz's findings so far. I agree with and have experienced everything they've posted so far.

Since replacing my barrels maybe a month ...

I had the same thing as you resonator on the scratchy keys, especially on left ctrl, left tab and somewhat on caps lock. I found that just a drop of Teflon Dry lube on the outside of the stems helps immensely much like on Alps stems. I posted this in a comment on Chyrosran22's video. Ellipse ...

Resonator, thank you for posting the video because this just proves that these boards do have some major issues. Sure they don't effect every board out there... but the boards that are effected literally melt away...


I'm trying to keep out of the drama but I think every one of these boards ...

To clarify the conditions under which my keyboard has been used, I live in Melbourne, Australia which is has temperate weather and I've never taken my keyboard out of the house. My typing style is to not touch the keyboard while I'm typing but I do allow my hands to relax on the keyboard between ...

@Ellipse, could you please share generic colour codes used for the case paint? I could only find information that seemed to be specific to some US hardware store.

Thanks.

I had the same thing as you resonator on the scratchy keys, especially on left ctrl, left tab and somewhat on caps lock. I found that just a drop of Teflon Dry lube on the outside of the stems helps immensely much like on Alps stems. I posted this in a comment on Chyrosran22's video. Ellipse ...

I think I've fixed the image.

Also, I don't mean to start this thread to hate on Ellipse. I personally don't give a shit that the paint is wearing through. I would like to know whether or not my experience is unusual, I suspect probably not. If this is normal, then sharing the situation is a good ...

I'm wondering, is anyone else's keyboard looking as raggity as mine? This is after about 9 months of daily use.

A few pages back I was trying to resolve issues with scratchy keys. I tried all sorts of experiments but I couldn't fix it. I improved it mildly by swaping caps, but I had no solution.

Today my replacement caps and barrels arrived so I replaced the stratchy keys, which of course fixed it ...

The "Unix" ones, though, mimic the Type 3 by changing leftmost number row key to Esc, moving Backspace down to the next row on the 1.5U key above Enter, and splitting the 2U key above it into two 1Us, with rightmost being `/~. So, as you say, HHKB-style. So if Esc got moved down to be in the ...

webwit wrote: 14 Nov 2024, 20:33 Those HHKB "fans" who use a FSSK or F104 should be excommunicated from the Church!

Nah. The Happy Hackers appear to be modeled on a Sun Type 3 which have a ton of keys. I'd recommend using that to decide what the default layout should be for a HHKB style on a larger keyboard.

Can somebody help‽


What you want is NathanA's Vial firmware. I'd suggest starting there and working backwards. I'm not sure what's currently shipping. I'm sure some else can help with that.

I totally agree with your rant, by the way. The walls of text are intimidating and so unnecessary. I'd ...

I take it, then, that you had no problem with any of the bottom row keys, and that key remapping in Vial worked fine (the correct key got remapped to the correct value)?


Yeah, the Matrix showed that the correct key registered for each of the buttons. However, I only have the first and forth ...

I tried it out on my scumyc. The firmware is fine, but the script to flash it on an arm Mac wasn't. I'm not sure why flash-util/dfu-programmer contains `dfu-programmer.macosx`. I hacked the script to rely on $PATH to find the correct binary. I also have no idea why it was stalling while "Waiting for ...

Give my screwdriver trick with the barrels a shot and let me know if that makes a difference for you.


I gave it a try, but it's not the answer. The edge of the barrel was very smooth to begin with. The replacement keys I swapped in yesterday are much smoother in feel, but they make a slight ...

I've tried some experiments. I first confirmed that using another keycap was fine, which it was. I inspected both keycaps to find any subtle differences but nothing stood out so I started trying things.

The first was burnishing the back of the stem. I used the handle of some stainless steel ...

Secondly, I started noticing some prevalent off-center binding/scratchiness on a some of the unstabilized keys after a little over a week of use. I noticed there was a bit of light colored debris around the corner edges of the barrels from the keycap stem rubbing against them, and they did feel a ...

Regarding floss mods - I was sent the following note:

That was me. For the benefit of others, I'll share the complete full email with all the feedback I offered Joe.


Hi Joe,

I've been using my Model F for a few months now and I just wanted to
share with you my experience now that everything ...

I've been hacking again on a new Minila with TMK's firmware.

The documentation I've written may be useful to others who are interested in hacking these boards.

https://github.com/jonhiggs/ml67/tree/master/doc

Sounds like something Rick Wakeman would feel right at home in.

When I get around to finishing the ML62, I might think about making another to switch to the function layer. For now, CTRL is mapped to capslock and I don't use option very much so I don't really have much need for another one.

But having said that, it would be easy to run a cable out the side of ...

Today I was having some trouble with RSI in my thumb from hitting command too much. I put together a footswitch to hopefully sort it all out. If anyone else is interested, the instructions are at https://github.com/jonhiggs/fs01.

A super quick project that you should be able to put together in ...

Hahaha, that's not a bad idea. I had a play to see if I could make it fit but no luck. The cherry switches are looking for a square 14.5mm hole with a thickness of about 2mm to latch onto. That's not an easy one to make with lego. It naturally wants to make a hole of a multiple of 8mm. You may be ...

Hey, I've been hacking away on a new computer for the last month or so. It basically started as an idea for an awesome keyboard. Something that's built with a nice Unix type layout like the old Sun Type 5 keyboards. Then I decided it'd be cool if there was a little computer in there. And of course ...

Well, I worked out the problem. Half the pins don't do anything, and worse, some of them make the whole thing go mental. I've given up on the Leonardo and have a Teensy 2.0 on it's way.

I'm having some trouble getting my keys to register. Using the matrix code pulled straight from the gh60 keyboard I was getting some keys to register, not the right ones and not all of them, but some of them at least worked. You can see the code while it was somewhat working at https://github.com ...

oh shit, I thought they were resistors (couldn't see them because they were on the other side of the board. Now that you mention it I'll have to double-check I've taken my connections from the right side of the diodes. I think it's good... I hope it's good.

I'm ready to start trying to get the Arduino to start recognising key-presses. Do the rows (the ones with resistors) need to be connected to analog pins? I assume the columns are digital.