ErgoDox trouble
- Half-Saint
- Location: Slovenia, Europe
- Main keyboard: Raptor Gaming K1
- Main mouse: Logitech G5 Mk.2
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Blue
- DT Pro Member: 0058
I finished assembling the right hand almost three weeks ago but only now got to asking for help... the problem is that an entire column of four keys is not working. How's that possible? I used somebody's premade layout for testing.
Things I checked:
- switches are fine
- diodes are oriented correctly
How do you check, if the diodes are fine? Anything else I should look at?
Things I checked:
- switches are fine
- diodes are oriented correctly
How do you check, if the diodes are fine? Anything else I should look at?
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
One of those meters, set to BEEEEEEEEEP mode, is your friend. In electronics: he sees, not your eyes. Especially with diodes. Note the red and black.
Concentrate on that faulty column of course. Go Columbo if required: get it so used to your probing that you can piece the truth together from the lies.
Concentrate on that faulty column of course. Go Columbo if required: get it so used to your probing that you can piece the truth together from the lies.
- Half-Saint
- Location: Slovenia, Europe
- Main keyboard: Raptor Gaming K1
- Main mouse: Logitech G5 Mk.2
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Blue
- DT Pro Member: 0058
Yes, I'm familiar with the ohm meter... however, I'm not sure how I'm supposed to use one in this particular case?
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
Beep!
There's something wrong with an entire column. Something called continuity. Either that or the controller's very selectively on the fritz. Nah! It'll be continuity.
Probe on!
There's something wrong with an entire column. Something called continuity. Either that or the controller's very selectively on the fritz. Nah! It'll be continuity.
Probe on!
- Halvar
- Location: Baden, DE
- Main keyboard: IBM Model M SSK / Filco MT 2
- Favorite switch: Beam & buckling spring, Monterey, MX Brown
- DT Pro Member: 0051
The column is one long line on the PCB that starts at the last switch on that column, passes every other switch in that column (without being interrupted by the switches), and then ends in one pin of the teensy. So if the whole line dioesn't work, you want to make sure there's 0 Ohm between the end of the column and the respective pin on the teensy ...
I'd say the most likely point of failure here is the connection between PCB and teensy for that special pin. Did you measure that?
I'd say the most likely point of failure here is the connection between PCB and teensy for that special pin. Did you measure that?
- Half-Saint
- Location: Slovenia, Europe
- Main keyboard: Raptor Gaming K1
- Main mouse: Logitech G5 Mk.2
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Blue
- DT Pro Member: 0058
Hmm, hasn't occured to me to measure thatHalvar wrote:I'd say the most likely point of failure here is the connection between PCB and teensy for that special pin. Did you measure that?

- Half-Saint
- Location: Slovenia, Europe
- Main keyboard: Raptor Gaming K1
- Main mouse: Logitech G5 Mk.2
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Blue
- DT Pro Member: 0058
Well.. I did a continuity test and I got the whole column to beep. It terminates in Teensy pin B1. I also tested what's labeled as SW0:5 and it checks out fine.
If this isn't the cause, what could it be?
If this isn't the cause, what could it be?
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
Odd. Might be a good idea to re-upload the software to the Teensy. Is the Ergodox controller under active development? Newest version if so.
Hardware wise, it's possible the Teensy itself is broken on that pin.
Hardware wise, it's possible the Teensy itself is broken on that pin.
- Half-Saint
- Location: Slovenia, Europe
- Main keyboard: Raptor Gaming K1
- Main mouse: Logitech G5 Mk.2
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Blue
- DT Pro Member: 0058
I downloaded this guy's layout (.hex) and uploaded it to Teensy about an hour ago:
https://www.massdrop.com/ext/ergodox/?r ... ef6b32a7fb
https://www.massdrop.com/ext/ergodox/?r ... ef6b32a7fb
- Half-Saint
- Location: Slovenia, Europe
- Main keyboard: Raptor Gaming K1
- Main mouse: Logitech G5 Mk.2
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Blue
- DT Pro Member: 0058
When I think about it... this test doesn't make any sense because it'll work even, if nothing is soldered to the board. It's basically just testing the traces on the PCB for continuity. Doesn't help find out why the switches aren't working.
I tested the diodes and they check out fine. Orientation is correct. Seriously, WTF?
I tested the diodes and they check out fine. Orientation is correct. Seriously, WTF?
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
That's pretty much exactly what it is: just a test of your solder joints on those traces. I think there might be something wrong with the Teensy on that pin, or at least how it connects to the PCB. You could try desoldering it for another go. (Or pulling another Teensy out of a drawer, just to rule it out…)Half-Saint wrote:When I think about it... this test doesn't make any sense because it'll work even, if nothing is soldered to the board. It's basically just testing the traces on the PCB for continuity. Doesn't help find out why the switches aren't working.
- Half-Saint
- Location: Slovenia, Europe
- Main keyboard: Raptor Gaming K1
- Main mouse: Logitech G5 Mk.2
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Blue
- DT Pro Member: 0058
Desolder the Teensy? I'd rather be shot... 

- Halvar
- Location: Baden, DE
- Main keyboard: IBM Model M SSK / Filco MT 2
- Favorite switch: Beam & buckling spring, Monterey, MX Brown
- DT Pro Member: 0051
If a whole column of switches isn't working, I'd say it's not really probable that it has to do with failures of the switches themselves. Like Muirium said, what I think you want to check is the solder point that connects PCB and teensy (or even the controller on the teensy) for that column, and also that the PCB trace of that column is insulated against other signals.
- Half-Saint
- Location: Slovenia, Europe
- Main keyboard: Raptor Gaming K1
- Main mouse: Logitech G5 Mk.2
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Blue
- DT Pro Member: 0058
Holy crap, I found it! I tested for continuity between B1 and the controller and there was none! All I needed was a little bit more solder on the B1 pin om the top side.Halvar wrote:(or even the controller on the teensy) for that column, and also that the PCB trace of that column is insulated against other signals.
Now it works! Thanks guys
