
heat shrinks replacement?
- Eszett
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Filco Majestouch 2 TKL DE MX blue
- Main mouse: Logitech MX Master 2S
- DT Pro Member: -
I had some problems with poorly mounted heat shrinks lately. They were mounted askew, so I tinkered them with a cutter knife, the result was not less poor. Then I got an idea. How about removing the heat shrinks. Then mask the cable with masking tape. Then spray a heavy layer with plastidip. Then cut with a cutter knife at the rim of the masking tape. What do you think, could that become a good heat shrink replacement?


- pyrelink
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: HHKB 2
- Main mouse: CST L-Trac
- Favorite switch: Capacitive Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
Maybe I am just out of the loop here, but what exactly are you looking to replace heatshrink on? Literally that USB cable? What is the heatshrink currently doing? Looking pretty, or is it actually serving a purpose?
- pyrelink
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: HHKB 2
- Main mouse: CST L-Trac
- Favorite switch: Capacitive Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
Honestly, if you don't like how it looks, I would say just get some more heatshrink, and try again. I doubt you could make masking tape and plastidip look anywhere near as nice as heatshrink, and it definitely wouldn't be as sturdy or reliable. I know when I made a couple custom USB cables, I got some nice 3:1 heatshrink, and I was able to line it up pretty perfectly.
- Eszett
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Filco Majestouch 2 TKL DE MX blue
- Main mouse: Logitech MX Master 2S
- DT Pro Member: -
@pyrelink You may be right, that heat shrinks are more resistant to force, they do not tear easily, but plastidip tears more easily. Ive got an USB cable with a USB-A connector about 11,5mm width, and the cable with 3-4mm. 3:1 heat shrink would barely fit. The only problem is, which heat source shall I use? A heat pistol is expensive, and I don’t want to use a cigarette lighter or something which creates soot.
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- Location: Stockholm, Sweden
- DT Pro Member: 0011
Hmm.. How about replacing the housing? Either use a plastic housing like Apple does, or make a flexible housing out of Sugru or something Sugru-like such as thickened tin- or platinum- cured silicone or urethane rubber.
If you use a plastic housing then maybe you could hide the heat-shrunk section inside the housing.
If you use a moulded housing then that would seep into the end of the sleeving and locking it like heat-shrinking would. You could use a mould to make an imprint of a keyboard symbol instead of the USB symbol.
If you use a plastic housing then maybe you could hide the heat-shrunk section inside the housing.
If you use a moulded housing then that would seep into the end of the sleeving and locking it like heat-shrinking would. You could use a mould to make an imprint of a keyboard symbol instead of the USB symbol.
- Eszett
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Filco Majestouch 2 TKL DE MX blue
- Main mouse: Logitech MX Master 2S
- DT Pro Member: -
@Findecanor Never heard of SUGRU, googled after it, alright, looks nice. Nobody wants a malformed lump of SUGRU but a perfect smooth and symmetrical cover, so a mould is needed for sure, but how do you acquire a mould which brings SUGRU in the right shape?
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- Location: Stockholm, Sweden
- DT Pro Member: 0011
I'm mostly throwing out ideas to try to inspire you. If you are sleeving cables yourself you seem inclined to be a DIY guy.. 
I have never used Sugru myself, but I hear it is like a modelling clay before it has cured. I have made stamps of various found objects that I have used to imprint patterns with into other types of modelling clays.
Maybe you could just cover the cable with a lump of Sugru and then cut the sides into a rectangular box using a sharp knife. I'm not sure if Sugru would be hard enough, though.

I have never used Sugru myself, but I hear it is like a modelling clay before it has cured. I have made stamps of various found objects that I have used to imprint patterns with into other types of modelling clays.
Maybe you could just cover the cable with a lump of Sugru and then cut the sides into a rectangular box using a sharp knife. I'm not sure if Sugru would be hard enough, though.
- Eszett
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Filco Majestouch 2 TKL DE MX blue
- Main mouse: Logitech MX Master 2S
- DT Pro Member: -
Hm, yes. As what I’ve seen so far from the videos it is not that hard as plastic, but not too soft either, should work. But a factor to consider is price. SUGRU is damn expensive, for that you probably need material for 15 €, and then you cut about 5 € with the knife away. I doubt that this is worth it?