
Firstly, a big thank you to Suka for the thread http://deskthority.net/workshop-f7/my-d ... t2534.html, which was inpiring me. Also thanks to Hasu for the firmware which made at least one step in the process go fast.
Secondly, pics, since I heard they say over 9000 words. As you can see, I am too ghetto for having a shop make a lasercut for me. For a rev2 I would definately change that, since it took a LOT of time (like 3-4 hours for each half) and I had to superglue some of the switches. Also it is time for a minor thanks for Matteo for his guides with nice pics of how to wire stuff.
On this one I didn't cut the sheet of aluminium up front and decided to bend it into a makeshift "case". The white stuff for the feet is Oogoo - not the best choice since it does not stick and the keyboard keeps sliding under my hands.
The Handrest on the right was not a planned feature but may actually stay, haven't decided on that one yet.
I also bent the thumbkeys on the left after setting everything up, after I recognised the right half was way more comfortable. That's a benefit of the not-lasercut plate - I don't care if it turns out ugly, since it started ugly. But I managed to break the plate holding one switch, so the switch on the right to Alt is epoxied in.
The legends on the keys are true except for the tab being left of Q, and left to Shift is backspace, but the feel of the lying numberrow is good. The inverted Shift on the right is FN1 for Arrows and special characters. Also doubles as Esc on tap.
The lying 9 is FN2 for Numpad. Also Paus was used first for entering bootloader on the teensy until I changed it to Bspc. Now that key is not used at all.
I tried another switch in that hole, but I just move everything when trying to press it. And it would be the only key in a new row or column, so it got removed.
That piece of aluminum standing on the left will be bent down after teensy and trackpoint (more on that following) have their final places.
Is it ergonomic?
Well, I am not at all used to mechanical keys. If I did this again, i would not use MX-blacks again (bought a cheep donor on Ebay). Probably reds or maybe browns. Or try Mattias switches first.
I am so used to type on my laptop pc where my palms removed the paint years ago, that I will probalby need a palmrest at about 3cm height for this thing. Also for now, this thing moves to the back when I type, especially on thumbkeys. Something has to be done about that one, since it makes me "foxdevilswild" - here you go, I am german.
Also the non-staggered design is a little problem for my left hand. On the right hand side it works out super intuitively since I turn the halves a little bit and the layout on the right is pretty close to a normal stagger. On the left it isn't. But I blame the stupid normal stagger for the left hand. I always type 'c' with my indexfinger and don't use the middle finger on bottom row at all. Now that becomes a problem, since the indexfinger doesn't reach that key easily. So I guess i learn to touchtype properly, but for now it makes me type horribly slow.
Also I'm not used to the thumbkeys. When you have to think about every shift or backspace, typing becomes the speed of a snail.
What comes next: I really want an integrated trackpoint on this thing. Probably below z and u, Suka-style as well. So I got an used Thinkpad keyboard and scrapped the touchpad. Turns out it is one of these: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=8971.0 and I found no answer to that question. I hoped it is this pinout, since pin 4 (or 7 if you count from other side) has a lot of connections on the pcb.
Code: Select all
Board pinout TPM754
---------------------------------
1 RST RST(5)
2 EX.DATA RXD(1)
3 TP_DATA TXD(2)
4 VCC
5 TP_CLK INT0(24)
6 EX.CKL INT1(4)
7 GND
8 BUTTON0 P3.0(25)
9 BUTTON1 P3.1(26)
10 BUTTON2 P3.2(27)
So I unplugged it and called it a day. Today I tried it again, what if that pin was Vcc, give it a shot.
But this time I was prepared - kinda. So instead of wiring everything up up front I start with Vcc and GND and add stuff later. And check the current on Vcc through my multimeter. It beeps, showing zero current. This is me using it for current the first time. So... going up from mA to A? I try that and measure a whopping 1.2A (or something along it) and think to myself "wow, it doesn't turn hot... oh it does, crap!" and unplug it. If that 1A did flow yesterday all the time when I uploaded the firmware and tested the trackpoint, it is probably fried, but I give it another go, switching Vcc and GND once again. Measure 34mA which is higher than I would guess the TP would need but not frying the chip at least. So I add stuff and try to find out where it went wrong yesterday. Adding all up still means 34mA and a non-functioning trackpoint.
What's your guess on it? Did I fry it?
Anyone got such a trackpoint to work? Mine is from a E520.