Need help with beamspring restauration
- Lalaland124
- Main keyboard: 3278
- Favorite switch: Beamspring
Think I got it
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- Lalaland124
- Main keyboard: 3278
- Favorite switch: Beamspring
Well it is done
Big thanks to darkcruix who I bombarded with questions lol and Weezer who also helped me a lot. Also AJM and ro0llo were a great help too.
I am pretty pleased with the result. Only the space bar bothers me a bit since it's very heavy but Weezer gave me a tip which I might try at some point in the future.
Also those white sliders took foreveeeer to dry and after several days I had to help them a little bit by using a hair dryer (don't worry it was cold air only!)
Thanks everyone for your support, it was a blast

I am pretty pleased with the result. Only the space bar bothers me a bit since it's very heavy but Weezer gave me a tip which I might try at some point in the future.
Also those white sliders took foreveeeer to dry and after several days I had to help them a little bit by using a hair dryer (don't worry it was cold air only!)
Thanks everyone for your support, it was a blast

Spoiler:
- raoulduke-esq
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: Current in the rotation: Silver Badge
- Main mouse: Magic Trackpad 2
- Favorite switch: Capacitive Buckling Spring
Congrats comrade! That looks most excellent. This is by far my favorite beamspring design; for some reason it always makes me think of Spaceballs and the swoop on the back is simply gorgeous.
- Weezer
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: IBM F122
- Main mouse: Dell 0KKMH5
- Favorite switch: IBM buckling spring & beam spring
Nice, that looks sexy af. Great job.
I also like the swoop. It's such an elegant feature. It's meant as a holder for the light pen accessory that came with the 327X terminals, as well as pens and pencils, but it also doubles as a notch to fit under the terminal better. And looking at the keyboard alone you'd never guess either of those things because it works so well as a design choice.
I also like the swoop. It's such an elegant feature. It's meant as a holder for the light pen accessory that came with the 327X terminals, as well as pens and pencils, but it also doubles as a notch to fit under the terminal better. And looking at the keyboard alone you'd never guess either of those things because it works so well as a design choice.
- AJM
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Geonworks W1-AT
- Favorite switch: Lichicx Lucy
- DT Pro Member: 0231
Great job! It looks fantastic. And you're so much faster than me (or less lazy). (As I see now - I not only have a very similar keyboard, but also that same keycap puller and "Henkellocheisen".
)

- Lalaland124
- Main keyboard: 3278
- Favorite switch: Beamspring
Thanks everyone, I really learned a lot while restoring that board. Also for those who didn't know: Weezer gave me the tip to use the original plate as a switch holder if you want to disassemble them and that saved me soooo much time. However, you will have to clean the plate afterward as some of the switches will probably have some foam glued onto them which is only really possible to remove once you have disassembled them. So naturally, some of the foam will stick onto the plate.
Glad you bought the same equipment, that ,,Henkellocheisen'' came with a huge dent tho so I had to sharpen it again
But like darkcruix said in his guide (highly recommend you go read it before you start disassembling your board: viewtopic.php?t=19775) you should really take your time and I did. I think overall I worked several days to a week on the thing, but I think you can do it way faster. I just didn't want to break anything and as I said, some of these parts took forever to dry
Spoiler:
It's truly amazing, I fell in love with that design quite a while ago

At first I wanted to do as little as possible but once I had that thing opened (and after I had already destroyed my parent's carpet with pieces of hot old foam which I had previously removed with a hair dryer flying around and sticking to the thing) I thought why not go all the wayAJM wrote: 26 Apr 2021, 21:28 Great job! It looks fantastic. And you're so much faster than me (or less lazy). (As I see now - I not only have a very similar keyboard, but also that same keycap puller and "Henkellocheisen".)


But like darkcruix said in his guide (highly recommend you go read it before you start disassembling your board: viewtopic.php?t=19775) you should really take your time and I did. I think overall I worked several days to a week on the thing, but I think you can do it way faster. I just didn't want to break anything and as I said, some of these parts took forever to dry

- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
All this stuff about the ticking time bomb of crumbly foam… quit giving me projects already, gah! 
Anyway, nice job on yours, Lala. Even if you're driving me doolally!

Anyway, nice job on yours, Lala. Even if you're driving me doolally!
- Lalaland124
- Main keyboard: 3278
- Favorite switch: Beamspring
Gotta be careful Muirium... Time is ticking...Muirium wrote: 28 Apr 2021, 16:08 All this stuff about the ticking time bomb of crumbly foam… quit giving me projects already, gah!![]()

Thanks and you're welcome MuiriumMuirium wrote: 28 Apr 2021, 16:08 Anyway, nice job on yours, Lala. Even if you're driving me doolally!

- Lalaland124
- Main keyboard: 3278
- Favorite switch: Beamspring
My controller finally arrived today after 2 months of waiting - Just to make sure: It didn't come with a ground wire and as a noobie when it comes to such things I wanted to make sure I don't break anything if I connect the controller to my computer. Is the wire necessary? If so I think chyros just used a random metal wire for his beamspring model.. Again I don't really know much about this whole controller thing so help would be much appreciated
Edit: I could use the one on the cable of my old model m which I bought for replacement parts right?

Spoiler:
Spoiler:
- Lalaland124
- Main keyboard: 3278
- Favorite switch: Beamspring
Quick question as I'm restoring another beamspring right now:
After using approximately 2liters of isopropyl alcohol I just can't remove the last bits of old glue residue..
Or am I missing something completely and what I'm seeing here are early signs of rust?
If so do I have to sand the entire plate down and recoat it? I would love to avoid that and rather keep it like it is if that doesn't ruin the beamspring - the keyboard will be stored in a good environment where rust shouldn't be a big issue.
After using approximately 2liters of isopropyl alcohol I just can't remove the last bits of old glue residue..
Spoiler:
If so do I have to sand the entire plate down and recoat it? I would love to avoid that and rather keep it like it is if that doesn't ruin the beamspring - the keyboard will be stored in a good environment where rust shouldn't be a big issue.
- TNT
- Location: Germany, Karlsruhe
- Main keyboard: Ellipse Model F77 / Zenith Z-150
- Main mouse: Logitech G203 Prodigy
- Favorite switch: It's complicated
- DT Pro Member: 0250
Doesn't look like glue to me. The foam/glue is known to corrode the metals over time. Never did anything too intrusive with beamspring plates, but yours doesn't look too bad. Keep it away from moisture o.c. and maybe you can treat the worst spots locally somehow?
- Lalaland124
- Main keyboard: 3278
- Favorite switch: Beamspring
Thanks! - Thought about using a rust remover but then I will definitely have to repaint the plate.
Maybe I will just leave it like this for now
Maybe I will just leave it like this for now