Ello, ello, ello! A fellow DT member very kindly agreed to let his Z-150 go. This maybe the prettiest keyboard I've ever laid my eyes on ...dare I say, even prettier than my FK-2000 Plus!? As far as I'm concerned, I've already reached "End Game" with my HHKB Type-S, Focus and Apex Pro; for key feel, aesthetics/sound and gaming respectively. However, this could be a serious contender in the majority of those categories if I get it right.
- Z-150 Main.jpg (1.78 MiB) Viewed 12218 times
This thread will serve as a point where I can check my thinking with more learned enthusiasts, straight up ask for help and share my experience with anyone else who is lucky enough to get one of these boards but lacks the confidence of dealing with restoring such a thing, like my myself.
So, I've found two or three other Z-150 threads, one quite recent, regarding pin outs and what not which have helped me discern my approach somewhat. I believe this Z-150 is the AT model due to it's badge. However, the PCB more closely resembles an XT PCB from what I can gather, the presence of Greens suggests it's an older model and I am aware that there was some sort of manufacturing overlap with the XT and AT models. I realise that the presence of lock lights would indicate that it's AT but I wish to be sure. Model label: 100-1860, PCB markings: 820-0204, XTAL, TC1-A35S. The original cable is missing, so before considering my next move, is there anyone that can confirm whether this is AT or XT?
- Z-150 PCB (1).jpg (2.66 MiB) Viewed 12218 times
If it's AT, I'm going to try and keep it as original as possible. The seller very kindly included a spare DIN cable that I was considering soldering on to the board to get this thing up and running but I kinda want a big dong, beige coil impractically sticking out the side, like a Zenith should have! My PC has native PS2 support so finding an original coiled AT cable (or something similar) would be my primary goal. Though, if it speaks XT, I may save myself the hunt and go for an internal Teensy conversion instead.
While I take my time to figure out how to get this talking again, I've begun the cleaning process. These Greens do need the full job. I plan to leave them soldered (apart from the one broken on the Num Pad), clean the bottom housings and plate in situ, and have already bathed the top housings and sliders. After watching a great Twitch stream where a fellow DT member experimented with one of the most recent Alps lubrication techniques, I'm pretty sold on the boiling water/paraffin method. However, there is something that may be simple that I first need help on. After searching the forum and the Wiki, I couldn't spot any tips ...how the bloody hell can you remove SKCL Green top housings when the switches have LEDs in them!? I have the Orihalcon Alps Tool (worth every penny BTW), but the top housings don't seem to budge! Do they just require greater force? Is there a trick to it?
- Z-150 LED Switch.jpg (2.24 MiB) Viewed 12218 times
Anyway, thanks for reading. Looking forward to getting this beauty back to where it should be! ....and irritating work colleagues with the beeper
- Z-150 Guts (2).jpg (1.84 MiB) Viewed 12218 times
). Nice condition, no yellowing at all.
)
