Help Restoring SSK

[701c]

Hi! I recently bought a 1988 Model M ssk for $88. When I received it, I found a lot of dirt in on the barrel plate. Apparently this was used in an auto shop, which the seller neglected to mention. I should be able to return it if restoring it is not worth it or is impossible. I am not able to test it, since I do not have a sdl cable, so I have no idea if everything works. There is only one rivet missing, so I do not know if doing a bolt mod is necessary. I would imagine separating the barrel plate from the rest of the board would make it a lot easier to clean. Any thought or suggestions? Thanks!
Here are a few pictures of the board. https://imgur.com/a/nHtf6Xg

[XMIT]

If you don't want it I'll gladly buy it from you for $88.

Model M repair is pretty well covered on this forum. Look around for some clues. Yes, I would do a full bolt mod if you have the time for it. Anything and everything on these boards can be repaired. Good luck!

[kokokoy]

For $88, you should restore it. And as XMIT said, full bolt mod it if you time and if you have spare budget convert it to bluetooth.

[701c]

I have removed the rivets and dissadembled the rest of the board. If I were to fully submerge the barrel plate in water for cleaning, would I have to apply lubricant to the board afterwards? Also, does anyone have any tips for cleaning the membrane? Thanks!

Here are pictures of the blanket and the membrane.
https://imgur.com/a/kY1q7RQ

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[ag36]

I have removed the rivets and dissadembled the rest of the board. If I were to fully submerge the barrel plate in water for cleaning, would I have to apply lubricant to the board afterwards? Also, does anyone have any tips for cleaning the membrane? Thanks!

Here are pictures of the blanket and the membrane.
https://imgur.com/a/kY1q7RQ

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

No lubing needed for buckling spring, wash the barrel plate with dish soap.

Don't wash the membrane with solvents and don't use brush. If the dusts are not sticky you can just blow them off with air, if not maybe try dish soap too? Try with one trace first so you can repair it easily if anything bad happends.

[digital_matthew]

Wow. Splitting open the barrel plate assembly is pretty hardcore, especially since you had only one missing rivet. I usually just clean the barrel plate with cotton swabs and soapy water. I wish you luck and as the others have stated this forum is a great place for info on Model M restoration.

[701c]

It probably wasnt 100% necessary to take apart the barrel assembly, but it sure made cleaning the barrel plate alot easier. I somehow managed to wipe off a trace while cleaning the membrane with a paper towel and water. Assuming I do not destroy any other pads, would it be better to use conductive paint to fix it or get a new membrane from unicomp and just fold the extra part of the membrane under the plate? Also, I remember reading something about the blanket rotting. Mine feels fine and is not tearing, but I can also get a new one from unicomp.

http://imgur.com/rxpWgM6

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[andrewjoy]

IF the pad is gone i would replace it
if it was a trace you could use a conductive pen but i would not rely on that for a pad

[701c]

IF the pad is gone i would replace it
if it was a trace you could use a conductive pen but i would not rely on that for a pad

The pad is gone. I have contacted unicomp about getting a new membrane, since I found the membrane also has other problems.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[fohat]

Unicomp mats ("blankets" in their parlance) are a very thin white latex and they add a crispness to the keyboard.

I recommend them.

[701c]

Okay, so the plan right now is to buy a new membrane and blanket from unicomp. I have seen people suggest either folding the extra membrane under the plate, or cutting the membrane and then redrawing the traces with a conductive pen/paint/tape. I have never actually seen someone do either if these things though.

[pyrelink]

Just throwing this out there: Make sure to inspect your barrel plate for any micro cracks (usually along the middle rows).

In my '88 SSK they wound up being bad enough (but hard to see), and got even worse when I started drilling holes that I needed to replace it and start over.

You can buy a replacement SSK Barrel frame from Unicomp luckily here: http://www.pckeyboard.com/page/product/CVSET style code: FR84.

[701c]

Just throwing this out there: Make sure to inspect your barrel plate for any micro cracks (usually along the middle rows).

In my '88 SSK they wound up being bad enough (but hard to see), and got even worse when I started drilling holes that I needed to replace it and start over.

You can buy a replacement SSK Barrel frame from Unicomp luckily here: http://www.pckeyboard.com/page/product/CVSET style code: FR84.

That's interesting. luckily I don't see any cracks on my barrel plate. It's weird that unicomp makes a barrel plate for the SSK but not a membrane. Thanks for sharing though. It makes me feel a little better in case I botch the bolt mod and need a new barrel plate.

[fohat]

Barrel plate (barrels are "chimneys" in Unicomp parlance) and other parts are the same for SSK and standard, IBM was fastidious about keeping things similar and interchangeable.

I made a "faux-SSK" by literally cutting, with a hack saw, the barrel plate, back plate, mat, and case from a standard M and folding the rest under. It worked fine, the traces and contacts were still live and active, but no signals ever came from them any more so it was as if they didn't exist. Do be careful that you don't have any breaks, shorts, or grounds where you didn't expect them.

My project was not fully successful because of case gluing/fitting problems, but electrically there were no fails.

[701c]

Barrel plate (barrels are "chimneys" in Unicomp parlance) and other parts are the same for SSK and standard, IBM was fastidious about keeping things similar and interchangeable.

I made a "faux-SSK" by literally cutting, with a hack saw, the barrel plate, back plate, mat, and case from a standard M and folding the rest under. It worked fine, the traces and contacts were still live and active, but no signals ever came from them any more so it was as if they didn't exist. Do be careful that you don't have any breaks, shorts, or grounds where you didn't expect them.

My project was not fully successful because of case gluing/fitting problems, but electrically there were no fails.

Hasu did something similar, but instead made it a 60% keyboard. I am glad to hear that there were no problems with the membrane being folded.

[andrewjoy]

Unicomp mats ("blankets" in their parlance) are a very thin white latex and they add a crispness to the keyboard.

I recommend them.

You can just go matless right and get it closer to F feeling right ?

[701c]

So I sanded off some of the big rust spots, but the plate still looks pretty rough. Does anyone have any suggestions of how to clean the plate, or should I just leave it the way it is? Thanks!
https://imgur.com/a/01xHgyR

[701c]

Barrel plate (barrels are "chimneys" in Unicomp parlance) and other parts are the same for SSK and standard, IBM was fastidious about keeping things similar and interchangeable.

I made a "faux-SSK" by literally cutting, with a hack saw, the barrel plate, back plate, mat, and case from a standard M and folding the rest under. It worked fine, the traces and contacts were still live and active, but no signals ever came from them any more so it was as if they didn't exist. Do be careful that you don't have any breaks, shorts, or grounds where you didn't expect them.

My project was not fully successful because of case gluing/fitting problems, but electrically there were no fails.

When you folded the membrane, were you able to sharply crease it? Or did you do it another way?

[Dingster]

So I sanded off some of the big rust spots, but the plate still looks pretty rough. Does anyone have any suggestions of how to clean the plate, or should I just leave it the way it is? Thanks!
https://imgur.com/a/01xHgyR

Sand the rust bits on the corners off as well, and (correct me if im wrong) but painting the plate with a quality metal paint should improve the looks as well (ofc sand well before painting). If you dont care about that just make sure you sand it well, going over the rougher patches again with higher grit sandpaper so it will look nicer

[fohat]

When you folded the membrane, were you able to sharply crease it? Or did you do it another way?

I put black electrical tape on the edge of the metal plate, and made the bend and fold as gentle as possible.

Not sharp crease at all.

[andrewjoy]

So I sanded off some of the big rust spots, but the plate still looks pretty rough. Does anyone have any suggestions of how to clean the plate, or should I just leave it the way it is? Thanks!
https://imgur.com/a/01xHgyR

I would sand it a bit further and then use some sort of rust converter on it.

Once that's done use some acid etch primer and then a top coat .

[ag36]

That plate needs to be sanded till there's only pitting holes and wire brushed before using etching paint or filler otherwise will keep getting worse

[Blaise170]

If there is still rust after sanding, soak the solution is vinegar for about 24 hours. This will require you to wash it again afterwards to get rid of the smell though. You can also buy special rust removal agents at builder supply chains like Home Depot. These are a bit pricier though. Once you soak, I would recommend using Rustoleum primer paint on it. On my Model F project, I am using Rustoleum antique nickel which is close to the original color and looks quite nice. The Rustoleum will prevent any further rust (important as vinegar can cause flash rusting).

[ag36]

If there is still rust after sanding, soak the solution is vinegar for about 24 hours. This will require you to wash it again afterwards to get rid of the smell though. You can also buy special rust removal agents at builder supply chains like Home Depot. These are a bit pricier though. Once you soak, I would recommend using Rustoleum primer paint on it. On my Model F project, I am using Rustoleum antique nickel which is close to the original color and looks quite nice. The Rustoleum will prevent any further rust (important as vinegar can cause flash rusting).

I ruined my cast iron teapot with vinegar so do be careful and check it every few hours

[Blaise170]

Yes do not use too long, Metal Rescue and Evaporust are good alternatives.

[701c]

Will I need a new controller to use with the new full-size membrane?