Alps plate spring custom build log (finished)
- Sup
- Location: Netherlands
- Main keyboard: Filco Zero/AEK II
- Main mouse: Final Mouse Ultralight black
- Favorite switch: Gateron Red/Gateron Yellow/SKCL Yellow/SKCL green
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
please pin this.
- snacksthecat
- ✶✶✶✶
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: SSK
- Main mouse: BenQ ZOWIE EC1-A
- DT Pro Member: 0205
- Contact:
Let me see if I can lube these in place. They bind like crazy right now.
- snacksthecat
- ✶✶✶✶
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: SSK
- Main mouse: BenQ ZOWIE EC1-A
- DT Pro Member: 0205
- Contact:
This is my crude method of lubing
Laugh if you want but there's no way I was going to open all these switches. I opened a few out of curiosity and it is not something I wanted to do 86 times!
Laugh if you want but there's no way I was going to open all these switches. I opened a few out of curiosity and it is not something I wanted to do 86 times!
- ZedTheMan
- Location: Central US
- Main keyboard: IModel F77/IBM 3101/Omnikey 102/96Kee
- Main mouse: Logitech G430/Logitech M570/Kensington Expert
- Favorite switch: Beamsprings. Alps SKCM Blue, Capacitive Buckling S
- DT Pro Member: 0219
This is the method I used with some really scratchy SMK vintage linears. It can be surprisingly effective.
How's it helping those Alps plate springs?
How's it helping those Alps plate springs?
- snacksthecat
- ✶✶✶✶
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: SSK
- Main mouse: BenQ ZOWIE EC1-A
- DT Pro Member: 0205
- Contact:
It helped quite a bit on these as well! Here's a typing videoZedTheMan wrote: 25 Apr 2019, 04:40 This is the method I used with some really scratchy SMK vintage linears. It can be surprisingly effective.
How's it helping those Alps plate springs?
- snacksthecat
- ✶✶✶✶
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: SSK
- Main mouse: BenQ ZOWIE EC1-A
- DT Pro Member: 0205
- Contact:
I'm unfortunately still not happy with the binding issue. The PTFE spray stuff helped a little but it's still very noticeable.

I'm going to double down on the lube approach and try another kind. I really don't want to have to resort to opening these up if cleaning is needed. I also am not familiar with how these switches feel at their best. The board I desoldered them from was quite dusty which should have been an obvious red flag for me. Oh well, more fiddling.


I'm going to double down on the lube approach and try another kind. I really don't want to have to resort to opening these up if cleaning is needed. I also am not familiar with how these switches feel at their best. The board I desoldered them from was quite dusty which should have been an obvious red flag for me. Oh well, more fiddling.

- snacksthecat
- ✶✶✶✶
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: SSK
- Main mouse: BenQ ZOWIE EC1-A
- DT Pro Member: 0205
- Contact:
This time I'm using this "Smooth Kote" gun lube stuff. Some post I came across on one of the forums recommended this (or gun lube in general... can't recall).

It has a nice fine needle applicator which makes it really easy to get into tight spots. One downside to this stuff, though, is that it is black so if you're attached to the clean look, this may not be for you.


It has a nice fine needle applicator which makes it really easy to get into tight spots. One downside to this stuff, though, is that it is black so if you're attached to the clean look, this may not be for you.

- Polecat
- Location: Downstream from Silicon Valley
- Main keyboard: Monterey K104 Industrial Gray
- Main mouse: Logitech Optical
- Favorite switch: Early Alps SKCM
- DT Pro Member: -
Beware of any lube, wet or dry, that contains graphite (which is dark gray or black). Graphite is conductive, and may cause erratic switch behavior. I'd suggest to test first by applying some lube to a scrap of paper or cardboard and checking it with an ohmmeter. If you get a reading less than "infinite" your lube is conductive!snacksthecat wrote: 29 Apr 2019, 02:36 This time I'm using this "Smooth Kote" gun lube stuff. Some post I came across on one of the forums recommended this (or gun lube in general... can't recall).
It has a nice fine needle applicator which makes it really easy to get into tight spots. One downside to this stuff, though, is that it is black so if you're attached to the clean look, this may not be for you.
- snacksthecat
- ✶✶✶✶
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: SSK
- Main mouse: BenQ ZOWIE EC1-A
- DT Pro Member: 0205
- Contact:
I'm working on a new PCB, modified to support multiple layouts this time. The problem I'm having is that sometimes the pads are intersecting, and I'm not sure if that's okay.
This is Hasu's APS footprint:

Does anyone know if the circled solid pads functionally do anything? Again, sometimes these pads are intersecting w/ pads 1 and 2 in my PCB layout and I want to figure out if this is an okay design decision or if it will create an issue.
THANKS!
This is Hasu's APS footprint:

Does anyone know if the circled solid pads functionally do anything? Again, sometimes these pads are intersecting w/ pads 1 and 2 in my PCB layout and I want to figure out if this is an okay design decision or if it will create an issue.
THANKS!
-
- Location: Austria, Vienna
- Main keyboard: currently IBM Model F XT
- Main mouse: nothing special
- Favorite switch: Capacitive Buckling Springs / Alps SKCM Brown
So did the "smooth kote" lube solve the binding issue? I own a P70 keyboard which was very clean when I bought it, but I notice a tiny bit of binding as well and I wonder if lubing completely solves this or just helps with more dirty switches.
-
- Location: Austria, Vienna
- Main keyboard: currently IBM Model F XT
- Main mouse: nothing special
- Favorite switch: Capacitive Buckling Springs / Alps SKCM Brown
And did the lube affect the sound in any way?
- snacksthecat
- ✶✶✶✶
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: SSK
- Main mouse: BenQ ZOWIE EC1-A
- DT Pro Member: 0205
- Contact:
Sorry for necro.
Sorry for spam.
Sorry for filesize.
Sorry, sorry, sorry!!!
Now that that's out of the way, here's a pretty gif of this keyboard getting some fresh air.

Sorry for spam.
Sorry for filesize.
Sorry, sorry, sorry!!!
Now that that's out of the way, here's a pretty gif of this keyboard getting some fresh air.

-
- Location: Canada
- Main keyboard: Focus FK-9000, heavily modded
- Main mouse: MX Master 3
Snacks, I got a question for ya...making my own (much simpler) plate spring build/pcb, and I am planning on using pcb-mount switches. How would I handle stabilizers? Do these just use normal Alps stabs? How do I add those to the PCB? Thanks 

- snacksthecat
- ✶✶✶✶
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: SSK
- Main mouse: BenQ ZOWIE EC1-A
- DT Pro Member: 0205
- Contact:
Hmm, that's a interesting question, and it's really going to depend on what your specific plans are. For me, I took everything from a keyboard that had plate mounted switches, so I didn't really give it any thought at the time. But if you're using PCB mount, I believe you have two options:kelvinhall05 wrote: 21 May 2020, 03:06 Snacks, I got a question for ya...making my own (much simpler) plate spring build/pcb, and I am planning on using pcb-mount switches. How would I handle stabilizers? Do these just use normal Alps stabs? How do I add those to the PCB? Thanks![]()
#1. Use whatever mechanism PCB mount APS keyboards use (I'm sorry I don't know

#2. A different approach for doing the build with the PCB mounted switches is to still have a plate. The switches aren't clipped in, since they don't have clips. But you'd add aligned cutout holes between the PCB and plate in order to do a bolt mod. I like this approach for a few reasons. First of all, a plate feels nice IMO. It also enables you to have plate mounted stabilizer clips. Here is an example from user Delirious
Did you harvest these things from a keyboard yourself, or did you buy everything in parts? Just wondering what option #1 might look like.
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- Location: Canada
- Main keyboard: Focus FK-9000, heavily modded
- Main mouse: MX Master 3
Well I actually got a loose pcb mount switch in from SneakyRobb with an M0116 and loved it so much I just built a pcb around it. I already had a PCB made ("focus58"; focus layout, wkl, 60%, Alps SKCM/SKCL only) so all I did was make a copy of that, change the switch footprints, and reroute the traces.snacksthecat wrote: 21 May 2020, 06:54Hmm, that's a interesting question, and it's really going to depend on what your specific plans are. For me, I took everything from a keyboard that had plate mounted switches, so I didn't really give it any thought at the time. But if you're using PCB mount, I believe you have two options:kelvinhall05 wrote: 21 May 2020, 03:06 Snacks, I got a question for ya...making my own (much simpler) plate spring build/pcb, and I am planning on using pcb-mount switches. How would I handle stabilizers? Do these just use normal Alps stabs? How do I add those to the PCB? Thanks![]()
#1. Use whatever mechanism PCB mount APS keyboards use (I'm sorry I don't know). I'm pretty clueless as to what those boards used, but I'll look a bit online and see if I can find some info. Or someone else can chime in and drop some knowledge on us.
#2. A different approach for doing the build with the PCB mounted switches is to still have a plate. The switches aren't clipped in, since they don't have clips. But you'd add aligned cutout holes between the PCB and plate in order to do a bolt mod. I like this approach for a few reasons. First of all, a plate feels nice IMO. It also enables you to have plate mounted stabilizer clips. Here is an example from user Delirious
Did you harvest these things from a keyboard yourself, or did you buy everything in parts? Just wondering what option #1 might look like.
Anyway, it seems like I will likely only be able to use PCB mount, and I would love to be able to use the keycaps and stabs from a Focus 2001 or similar.
- snacksthecat
- ✶✶✶✶
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: SSK
- Main mouse: BenQ ZOWIE EC1-A
- DT Pro Member: 0205
- Contact:
That's cool, but really wondering what options you have for stabilizers if that's the case. I mean, you could try cutting/drilling the PCB, but I don't have experience with that so can't say how difficult it is. Or you could glue the stabilizer clips to the PCB I suppose. It's a bit of a hack but would probably work fine. In any case, I look forward to seeing how it turns outkelvinhall05 wrote: 21 May 2020, 13:53 Well I actually got a loose pcb mount switch in from SneakyRobb with an M0116 and loved it so much I just built a pcb around it. I already had a PCB made ("focus58"; focus layout, wkl, 60%, Alps SKCM/SKCL only) so all I did was make a copy of that, change the switch footprints, and reroute the traces.
Anyway, it seems like I will likely only be able to use PCB mount, and I would love to be able to use the keycaps and stabs from a Focus 2001 or similar.

- SneakyRobb
- THINK
- Location: Canada
- Main keyboard: KB-5161A, F122, Dc2014, Typeheaven, Beamspring FXT
- Main mouse: MX518 Legendary
- DT Pro Member: 0242
These are the stabilizers on the broken PCB P70 I got.
I could remove them and then model them for 3d printing from something like Shapeways.
The original ones are plastic melt riveted but you could have ones that clip in. That way they would be optimal height
I could remove them and then model them for 3d printing from something like Shapeways.
The original ones are plastic melt riveted but you could have ones that clip in. That way they would be optimal height
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- snacksthecat
- ✶✶✶✶
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: SSK
- Main mouse: BenQ ZOWIE EC1-A
- DT Pro Member: 0205
- Contact:
Robb: *gives actual solution*
Me: durrrr use glue t(〃⊙౪⊙〃)/
Me: durrrr use glue t(〃⊙౪⊙〃)/
- SneakyRobb
- THINK
- Location: Canada
- Main keyboard: KB-5161A, F122, Dc2014, Typeheaven, Beamspring FXT
- Main mouse: MX518 Legendary
- DT Pro Member: 0242
Keyboard excellence is collaborative and you are an extremely valuable equal contributor!