Leather Clad Tenkeyless Dell

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gmjhowe

10 Feb 2013, 18:22

(was originally 'Dell AT102W (Alps) to Tenkeyless Mod')

This is a mod I have seen done a few places elsewhere.
I thought I would take the time to show my go at it.

These were the original images I posted after I had just modded the board, before I made it look pretty.
Spoiler:
DellAlpsTenkeyless.jpg
DellAlpsTenkeyless.jpg (457.98 KiB) Viewed 3166 times
DellAlpsTenkeyless(under).jpg
DellAlpsTenkeyless(under).jpg (541.31 KiB) Viewed 3166 times
Instructions on how I went about this, including some diagrams of where to solder are here -
Spoiler:
The theory behind this is fairly simple, mostly because its a one sided PCB.

You look see which parts of the PCB where the Numpad is that you need to keep. In the case of the Dell, we want to keep the connector, and the LEDs. Being a Mac user I don't need the scroll lock LED, as we are removing the numpad, we also don't need the Numlock LED, you can either bend and break these off, or desolder them off.

Once you know which bits you need you basically follow the tracks in both directions from where you plan to cut off the Numpad portion of the PCB, then solder a wire between the first two contact points you find. Much easier than trying to solder onto a track.

We also need to make sure that any of the traces that connect up to keys on the side of the keyboard we want to keep are connected up again. Using the same method of following traces both directions from the cut. If one end of the trace ends on a key we are chopping off, there is no need to reconnect it.

Watch out for the jumpers that come through on the front of the board.

Here is the guide I made to resolder from.
DellConversion.jpg
DellConversion.jpg (514.43 KiB) Viewed 3166 times
The cluster of lines on traces show the points you need to connect via wires for the connector LED's and resistors. The purple lines show where I cut off my PCB, you can however trim off a bit more.
The more 'wavy' lines are where we reconnect up the tracks that go off the main part of the PCB but come back on else where.

If you find a key isn't working, basically look to see where its soldered onto the board, follow the tracks and see if it goes off the main part of the PCB onto the numpad.

With my mod, I cut the traces along the vertical purple line first but without breaking off the PCB, this meant I could easily work and resolder, while also being able to plug in the keyboard to check which keys were/were not working.

I am not responsible if you break your keyboard, however I am happy to help.
Since doing all that, I have laser cut some end pieces. These slot onto the end of the mount plate and PCB, making for a really easy to make and use case. The advantage being you can easily flip it over to do any more modifications.

I then used the original housing for the sections between the keys, both this and the end pieces I covered in upholstery leather. I think over all the final thing has a definite steampunk vibe, which considering my other projects, sounds about right.
LeatherboardcFull.jpg
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LeatherboardEnd.jpg
LeatherboardEnd.jpg (191.3 KiB) Viewed 3048 times
Here you can see how the end pieces have slots that allow you to slot them over the end of the plate/PCB.
Leatherboardclose.jpg
Leatherboardclose.jpg (129.47 KiB) Viewed 3048 times

User avatar
gmjhowe

17 Feb 2013, 16:53

Updated my post with the completed project, including lots more leather and laser cut wooden end pieces.

User avatar
Ascaii
The Beard

17 Feb 2013, 16:57

Very nice project, im digging it.

How do you keep tension between the two slotted sides? Is there a cross bar along the bottom of the pcb?

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dirge

17 Feb 2013, 18:07

Really good work bud! Love the ISO/UK Alps board :)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300859796813 <- just won one too :)

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Paranoid

17 Feb 2013, 22:10

awesome! Nice work man :)
I've been struggling with my own tenkeyless of an at120w which has been on hold for quite some time now, so it's great to see you posted your wire schedule! I'll double check this later with mine, and if that doesn't work I guess I screwed up the board :p luckily I still have a spare ^^ having a laser cutter at your service is also pretty sweet!

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gmjhowe

18 Feb 2013, 10:32

Ascaii wrote:Very nice project, im digging it.

How do you keep tension between the two slotted sides? Is there a cross bar along the bottom of the pcb?
You can see on a few of the pictures that I cut a hole towards the back of the stand. This is because I fully expected to need to keep tension on the two sides, the idea being I could put a piece of threaded rod through and bolt either side of each end.

However, the fit on the ends was snug enough that I just had to gently tap them on with a happy and they hold their own.
dirge wrote:Really good work bud! Love the ISO/UK Alps board :)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300859796813 <- just won one too :)
I really like my double height enter. On my custom board design I plan to use a vertical 2 unit key to help keep size down, while also emulating the experience of an ISO enter.
Paranoid wrote:awesome! Nice work man :)
I've been struggling with my own tenkeyless of an at120w which has been on hold for quite some time now, so it's great to see you posted your wire schedule! I'll double check this later with mine, and if that doesn't work I guess I screwed up the board :p luckily I still have a spare ^^ having a laser cutter at your service is also pretty sweet!
Yeah, I am a member of a Hackspace over here in the UK, which gives me access to lots of cool tools.
It took me several attempts to perform the mod, it was only when I took the time to sit down and draw on top of the traces that I did it right.

User avatar
Paranoid

28 Feb 2013, 22:22

cool :) can't wait to try it out on my still working pcb's when I have some time between everything else that I'm doing ^^ I just found that there is a fablab nearby where you can work without paying for the machines, hooray! Downside is that's it's only open when I work :p I'll have to figure something out :D

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